Flushing/Burping Coolant.
Well I just drained my coolant and changed a leaking coolant hose going to my turbo,
and now refilling it, I'm having a hard time getting the air out of my coolant system. (I have no heat in the car)
Any tips for me?
I tried looking up xviper's coolant thread, but the link wasn't working.
Also I was curious about what types of coolant to use?
Regular store bought coolant is apparently not silicate-free,
so it is recommended to just use Honda's coolant.
Thanks for any help
and now refilling it, I'm having a hard time getting the air out of my coolant system. (I have no heat in the car)
Any tips for me?
I tried looking up xviper's coolant thread, but the link wasn't working.
Also I was curious about what types of coolant to use?
Regular store bought coolant is apparently not silicate-free,
so it is recommended to just use Honda's coolant.
Thanks for any help
it can take a long time to get the air out sometimes. Open up the bleed bolt on the front of the intake manifold, start the car with the rad cap open and the rad filled to the base of the rad neck. Have the heater temp. setting on full heat and let it idle.
Once you see coolant streaming out of the bleed bolt without air bubbles, tighten it up and shut down the car. You should have hot air flowing out of the vents by that time. Fill the rad up to the base of the neck and make sure the over-flow tank is to max. It can take a long time to get a steady stream of fluid coming out of the bleed bolt, so manipulate the throttle body by hand and rev the engine to get the coolant flowing and heat increased. Once done tighten the rad cap.
Don't bother with the plug on the firewall it's useless, and I would only use Honda fluid - takes up to 2 jugs.
Once you see coolant streaming out of the bleed bolt without air bubbles, tighten it up and shut down the car. You should have hot air flowing out of the vents by that time. Fill the rad up to the base of the neck and make sure the over-flow tank is to max. It can take a long time to get a steady stream of fluid coming out of the bleed bolt, so manipulate the throttle body by hand and rev the engine to get the coolant flowing and heat increased. Once done tighten the rad cap.
Don't bother with the plug on the firewall it's useless, and I would only use Honda fluid - takes up to 2 jugs.
Well I just drained my coolant and changed a leaking coolant hose going to my turbo,
and now refilling it, I'm having a hard time getting the air out of my coolant system. (I have no heat in the car)
and now refilling it, I'm having a hard time getting the air out of my coolant system. (I have no heat in the car)
- Make sure radiator is full and overflow tank is at high level
- Re-cap radiator
- Crack open bleeder valve on intake manifold
- Squeeze upper radiator hose until liquid comes out of bleeder valve, then
immediately close bleeder valve (while maintaining pressure on rad hose)
- Top off radiator with fluid, cap and repeat until no air comes out
- Now do the same process, but use the rear bleeder (on the firewall)
Quote from S2K-F8
I tried looking up xviper's coolant thread, but the link wasn't working.
Also I was curious about what types of coolant to use?
Regular store bought coolant is apparently not silicate-free,
so it is recommended to just use Honda's coolant.
Regular store bought coolant is apparently not silicate-free,
so it is recommended to just use Honda's coolant.
Hey thanks guys, I didn't know about the bleeder by the intake manifold.
I seem to have gotten all the air bubbles from the lower lines, but there was still some in the heater core lines, so hopefully that works.
And thanks for the link, the one in the thread that I was reading wasn't working anymore.
I'll give that a shot!
I seem to have gotten all the air bubbles from the lower lines, but there was still some in the heater core lines, so hopefully that works.
And thanks for the link, the one in the thread that I was reading wasn't working anymore.
I'll give that a shot!
Oh and I was also curious if a Honda dealership would even work on my car since it is turbocharged?
(If I decide to get a full flush done by them)
Or is it not worth it?
(If I decide to get a full flush done by them)
Or is it not worth it?
Just had this happen to me. Heater stopped working right. It would blow hot air when i was driving but once i came to a stop it would start blowing cold. Then a week later, bam car overheats. Turned out to be the thermostat seized and wouldnt open anymore. Replaced the thermostat and now everything is running good. Also had them bleed the air out of the radiator with whatever the tool is called that uses compressed air to force coolant into the radiator with one hose and force the air out pockets and coolant back out of the other hose untill the system is filled and bled. Seems to be working out great so far.
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S TWO K
S2000 Under The Hood
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Feb 20, 2002 07:05 PM







