So when a clutch is in use with a flywheel, apparently there are little groves worn in the flywheel surface, much like a brake rotor. So, when you swap out a clutch, is there anything your should be doing to the flywheel? Or do you just throw on a new disk and pressure plate and be done with it? Do flywheels wear out? How long should they last?

Lastly, I was told by David @ SPEC Clutch that .020" off the surface of the rotor can make a difference in 3-4 inches in where the pedal engages, so it sounds like milling/decking the flywheel is not an option.

Thoughts? Discuss.

Chris

 

you don't always have to resurface the flywheel. only if there are major grooves or nicks in it.

 

Each flywheel will be in a different condition when inspected. At the time of a clutch job, the flywheel should be inspected closely and a decision made to either leave alone, replace it or take it in for machining. I think there are numbers stamped on it to show just how much is the safe working thickness. Since the clutch travel is not quite the same as brake caliper travel (in the way the pedal movement translates into final movement of the controlled part), it might not be relevent to compare the two.
In the case of brakes, the fluid pushes directly on the back of the piston next to the pads. In the case of the clutch, the fluid pushes to actuate a lever. This lever then acts on the throwout bearing. The plane of transfer of force is a bit different.

 

Its also good to look for the heat spots or high spots. Last fall when we did my brothers clutch in his Integra, we pulled the tranny out of the car to clean it and to make installing the new flywheel easier and all I have to say is its a good thing we replaced it because that thing had so many heat spot I'm surprized it even worked.

You want to look at measuring the flatness of the flywheel with a straightedge and feeler gauge, and inspect the surface for cracks, grooving or hard spots (discolored areas that are slightly raised above the surrounding surface).
If the clutch isn

 

If the flywheel is not true or there is burning it is recommended that you at replace or resurface. I have had OEM and aftermarket FW's milled a small amout with no problem. On FW's with no apparent wear or hotspots I have simply reworked the surface using 100 grit sandpaper (have done FD's the same way).

 

You just rub the flywheel surface with 100 grit sand paper to smooth it out and it's fine?

I am curious how my Spoon flywheel has made it this far with a 4 puck and high power output. The clutch grabs right away so there hasn't been much slipping at all... Any estimates on wear?

The clutch is as strong as ever right now, but it's very difficult to drive, and I will be switching the disk and freshening up the flywheel.

Thanks

Chris

 

I'd guess the flywheel is pretty beat up. When I had a ACT 6 puck on my 240sx and took a look at my flywheel, it wasn't pretty. Those clutches really eat everything up. The power output was low...but the car was used for drifting and had a lot of clutch kick outs which puts a lot of abuse.

The organic discs put much less wear than the copper ones do.

 

Have the flywheel step-ground to the proper spec and be done with it

 

^I agree. Your better off to do it now and be done with it then have to take it all apart and do it later on with the possiblity of needing another new clutch.