Front brake seized up
Replaced my front disc to slotted mugen, and front pads to mugen street sports today. Got a set of goodridge braided hose together with mugen brake fluid, bleed the system as usual after installing the pads and calipers.
Everything was fine, the car ran well. Suddenly after doing a rev matched heel and toe while entering a free way. Suddenly, I felt as if the car is running on 3 cyclinders, and there was absolute lost of power. The car also pulled towards the left, and I had to fight with the steering.
Pulled over to the road shoulder, and smoke was coming out of the front passenger brakes, the brand new disc is now discoloured and there was lots of dust. Cooled the brakes down by the freeway shoulder, and everything is back to normal. The brakes are now behaving normally. Anyone had similar experience, what went wrong? Dust in the brake lines? Really strange, only 1 caliper seized up.
Everything was fine, the car ran well. Suddenly after doing a rev matched heel and toe while entering a free way. Suddenly, I felt as if the car is running on 3 cyclinders, and there was absolute lost of power. The car also pulled towards the left, and I had to fight with the steering.
Pulled over to the road shoulder, and smoke was coming out of the front passenger brakes, the brand new disc is now discoloured and there was lots of dust. Cooled the brakes down by the freeway shoulder, and everything is back to normal. The brakes are now behaving normally. Anyone had similar experience, what went wrong? Dust in the brake lines? Really strange, only 1 caliper seized up.
I've had a front caliper piston "stuck" with worn brake pads.
The piston was almost max out of its housing, but I think Honda designed it in a way that it should not be a problem.
Nevertheless it did, putting new brake pads in solved it.
Maybe, when the piston is out of its housing for a long period of time (with worn brake pads) it slightly corrodes (or simular), when you pushed the piston back in to make the new pads fit that corroded part made the piston slide just a little less smooth in the caliper, making it stick a bit?
If that caliper got really hot you may have to bleed it again, to get rid of the (over)heated brake fluid.
The piston was almost max out of its housing, but I think Honda designed it in a way that it should not be a problem.
Nevertheless it did, putting new brake pads in solved it.
Maybe, when the piston is out of its housing for a long period of time (with worn brake pads) it slightly corrodes (or simular), when you pushed the piston back in to make the new pads fit that corroded part made the piston slide just a little less smooth in the caliper, making it stick a bit?
If that caliper got really hot you may have to bleed it again, to get rid of the (over)heated brake fluid.
Did you re-grease the pins when you did this? The slidy pins that the caliper slides on should be taken apart and re-greased with the right high temp grease when you do this.
You can also have a case where the brake lines are collapsed internally and will only let high pressure in one direction (to the brakes) and not let it go down back to the master cylinder. I'd check the routing of the new lines so, you know they're not getting kinked.
Could be the piston too of course.
If it happens again, I'd stick the stock brake line back on there and see if it goes away. Stock brake lines are braided too but, it's internal so you can't see it.
You can also have a case where the brake lines are collapsed internally and will only let high pressure in one direction (to the brakes) and not let it go down back to the master cylinder. I'd check the routing of the new lines so, you know they're not getting kinked.
Could be the piston too of course.
If it happens again, I'd stick the stock brake line back on there and see if it goes away. Stock brake lines are braided too but, it's internal so you can't see it.
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Aug 31, 2011 09:04 AM




