Front subframe bolts
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 4,953
Likes: 25
From: 17 ft below sea level.
As far as alignment goes: you can get away with it if you're lucky enough to put the subframe back where it was.
You could mark its position before of the main frame to give you an indiacation.
Fool-proof = align afterwards.
With the position of the subframe you can try to get some more caster, if you need/want.
Knock sensor: remove connector before trying to get past it with a socket extension.
When the connector is removed you still have to be very carefull not to damage the sensor.
If you are carefull its manageble.
IDK if its easy to remove the sensor, as long as you're sure removing it does no harm then why not.
You could mark its position before of the main frame to give you an indiacation.
Fool-proof = align afterwards.
With the position of the subframe you can try to get some more caster, if you need/want.
Knock sensor: remove connector before trying to get past it with a socket extension.
When the connector is removed you still have to be very carefull not to damage the sensor.
If you are carefull its manageble.
IDK if its easy to remove the sensor, as long as you're sure removing it does no harm then why not.
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,624
Likes: 10
I would recommend removing the knock sensor completely. Its not the easiest to get to... I think I actually used a crescent wrench to loosen/retighten it. But the sensor itself has the plastic connector sticking out pretty far and even with the plug removed it will still be very easy to break off. And that's an immediate $100 mistake.
Registered User
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 242
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your green circles are correct.
The corner bolts are very long. Loosen them THREE inches exactly, but do not remove them.
Then put your jack underneath and remove the middle two. They are short.
Then lower the subframe onto the 4 corner bolts.
Dont forget to disconnect the steering rack. once you do, REMOVE the key and lock the steering wheel. If the steering wheel is allowed to rotate out of time before reconnecting, you WILL BREAK the cable reel.
The corner bolts are very long. Loosen them THREE inches exactly, but do not remove them.
Then put your jack underneath and remove the middle two. They are short.
Then lower the subframe onto the 4 corner bolts.
Dont forget to disconnect the steering rack. once you do, REMOVE the key and lock the steering wheel. If the steering wheel is allowed to rotate out of time before reconnecting, you WILL BREAK the cable reel.
Billman, During my disconnection of steering rack, I accidently took out the torque sensor assembly, instead of disconnecting at the pinion joint.
While putting the torque sensor assembly back, I lost track of alignment and now my steering is misaligned. I just wanted to ask you, what you mean by it will break the cable reel. Which part is the cable reel in the steering column?
Moderator
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 22,383
Likes: 1,832
From: Long Island, New York
Cable reel is behind the steering wheel.
If you disconnect column, turn wheel 360, then reconnect column, you will break the cable reel once you max out a turn in one direction.
As long as original timing has not been lost you are fine.
If you are 5 degrees off, you are fine. Just re-spline until the wheel is straight.
If you are 365 degrees off, you will break it.
If you disconnect column, turn wheel 360, then reconnect column, you will break the cable reel once you max out a turn in one direction.
As long as original timing has not been lost you are fine.
If you are 5 degrees off, you are fine. Just re-spline until the wheel is straight.
If you are 365 degrees off, you will break it.
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