Fuse 8 Under Dash Keeps Blowing
Originally Posted by toniotran,Jan 24 2010, 10:17 PM
you might just want to try disconnecting the battery before replacing the fuse.
Originally Posted by Kirpich,Jan 25 2010, 06:55 PM
Are switches sealed from the factory? Probably not, so if water gets inside, boom, a short.
Don't bother disconnecting the battery. The fuse will only blow again as soon as you reconnect.
Let me add this tidbit about water in switches...
A friend of mine window tints. When he sprays the glass, plenty of water runs right into the switches.
He has been doing this for over 12 years and never had a complaint about someone's window not working, or having some type of electrical issue. 100% of the time, if the customer is watching, he will comment about the water running down the door panel.
Maybe another window tinter can chime in...
Let me add this tidbit about water in switches...
A friend of mine window tints. When he sprays the glass, plenty of water runs right into the switches.
He has been doing this for over 12 years and never had a complaint about someone's window not working, or having some type of electrical issue. 100% of the time, if the customer is watching, he will comment about the water running down the door panel.
Maybe another window tinter can chime in...
I'll teach you all a serious diagnostic tip. Read careful...
Make yourself a homemade short circuit finder. Basically any 12v auto bulb, with a wire coming off each side. Plug each of these wires into each side of the fuse terminal that keeps eating fuses (basically, a bulb to replace the fuse).
Now...when you turn the key on (if it's a key-on circuit like the original poster's) the light will light, indicating a short circuit.
Now you can go disconnect stuff. Once the light goes out, you've found your problem
I've found over the years almost ANY short circuit is the result of some component added, or moved, in the car.
Start where any mod or repair took place...
Make yourself a homemade short circuit finder. Basically any 12v auto bulb, with a wire coming off each side. Plug each of these wires into each side of the fuse terminal that keeps eating fuses (basically, a bulb to replace the fuse).
Now...when you turn the key on (if it's a key-on circuit like the original poster's) the light will light, indicating a short circuit.
Now you can go disconnect stuff. Once the light goes out, you've found your problem

I've found over the years almost ANY short circuit is the result of some component added, or moved, in the car.
Start where any mod or repair took place...
Billman250 Posted on Jan 27 2010, 03:08 PM
Wouldn't it be - maybe only a tiny little bit
- safer to specify the bulb, like an indicator bulb or an interior light bulb?
In any way a bulb that draws milli amps?
I mean.. if someone decides to use an old H4 they have lying around.
In my last job finding shorts was a daily thing.
Industrial enviroment, not automotive.
IMO the safest way to find them is to first switch off the power.
Disconnect as many items you can find that are protected by that fuse.
Then put the fuse (or in our case a circuit breaker - the benefit is you can "use" them more than once) back in, switch power on and see it it stays in.
Then switch the power off again and connect one suspect.
(that way you're not using the connector as an on/off switch)
Swith power on and see if the fuse stays in.
Connect something else and try again.
I know finding 400V~ shorts is something different but IMO the procedure stays the same, no matter what the voltage.
Basically any 12v auto bulb .. / / ... basically, a bulb to replace the fuse.
- safer to specify the bulb, like an indicator bulb or an interior light bulb?In any way a bulb that draws milli amps?
I mean.. if someone decides to use an old H4 they have lying around.
In my last job finding shorts was a daily thing.
Industrial enviroment, not automotive.
IMO the safest way to find them is to first switch off the power.
Disconnect as many items you can find that are protected by that fuse.
Then put the fuse (or in our case a circuit breaker - the benefit is you can "use" them more than once) back in, switch power on and see it it stays in.
Then switch the power off again and connect one suspect.
(that way you're not using the connector as an on/off switch)
Swith power on and see if the fuse stays in.
Connect something else and try again.
I know finding 400V~ shorts is something different but IMO the procedure stays the same, no matter what the voltage.







...with the billman 