Having Coolant Issues - Mishimoto Install
Originally Posted by Billman250,Feb 14 2011, 09:38 PM
The key to getting air out of the s2k bleeder is make sure the car is NOT running.
Open it while hot, car off. I can assure you all your hidden air will be right there at that 12mm bleeder.
I have also found using the rubber bleeder on the firewall is not necessary. Not only that, if your methods are not perfected, you will get air INTO the car with this rubber bleeder.
And whatever you do, dont follow the book.
Open it while hot, car off. I can assure you all your hidden air will be right there at that 12mm bleeder.
I have also found using the rubber bleeder on the firewall is not necessary. Not only that, if your methods are not perfected, you will get air INTO the car with this rubber bleeder.
And whatever you do, dont follow the book.
I did a second bleed on mine this weekend and was able to get more fluid into the radiator after the bleed was done and the engine cooled. When I opened the bleed bolt after shutting down the car at 3 bars I got coolant to flow out of the bleed bolt, so I have to assume all of the air is now out. The air coming out of the heater vents is hotter than the last bleed too which is a good sign.
I've never had any luck with the bleed cap along the firewall, I never bother with it anymore, it seems useless to me.
Hey all, I'm having a mishimoto issue as well in regards to overheating.
I've bled my system as instructed in this thread twice. Car runs fine, but idling or reving in place will eventually get the car to the fourth temp bar (AP1).
The radiator fans, which are also Mishimoto's are NOT turning on EVER.
When I put the car away for storage, they were working. Now with seemingly no change, I'm having issues.
When the car gets to the fourth temp bar, I can hear air escaping from the Mishimoto rad cap.
Top hose is hot, bottom hose can be warm or hot depending if the heater is on. Heater works normal.
Bad rad cap? Bad thermostat? Bad fan switch/relay?
What is the best method to test if my fans are functional?
Thanks for the help,
-Greg
EDIT: Quick check and I found the sensor unplugged on the rad. Doh.
I've bled my system as instructed in this thread twice. Car runs fine, but idling or reving in place will eventually get the car to the fourth temp bar (AP1).
The radiator fans, which are also Mishimoto's are NOT turning on EVER.
When I put the car away for storage, they were working. Now with seemingly no change, I'm having issues.
When the car gets to the fourth temp bar, I can hear air escaping from the Mishimoto rad cap.
Top hose is hot, bottom hose can be warm or hot depending if the heater is on. Heater works normal.
Bad rad cap? Bad thermostat? Bad fan switch/relay?
What is the best method to test if my fans are functional?
Thanks for the help,
-Greg
EDIT: Quick check and I found the sensor unplugged on the rad. Doh.
QUESTION: Would it be better to let Honda service the car and do a flush so I don't have to worry about bleeding it incorrectly?
I'm a newbie and have recently did this mod to my S. I have notice the same issue with my car that the lower hose is the extreme opposite from the top hose. I have not had a spike in the tempeture yet when running it on the highway.
I'm a newbie and have recently did this mod to my S. I have notice the same issue with my car that the lower hose is the extreme opposite from the top hose. I have not had a spike in the tempeture yet when running it on the highway.
Had overheating issues like discribed in the thread. Now I'm running it and ran it a few times to vtec. Heat cranked. Can't get it it to go past three bars. But the other day I had problems just keeping it below 5 bars. Air pockets or possibly thermostat? Just got a new motor installed not even 2 weeks ago. Didnt have problems till a few days ago. Now I can't get it to do it again. Any ideas guys? Thanks for the help!
I have this same problem. I have the SOS vmount radiator/ intercooler setup. System have been bled like crazy and there always still seems to be air in it. Heater takes a long time to blow warm air out and it will stay warm for a bit then start blowing cold air again. Car overheats. My water temp gauge read 240* just cruising it would spike. This was after I did do some pulls. We touched the radiator, it was cold as can be. Upper hose was super hot. Lower hose was cold. The heater core/hose was hot as well. Stumped. ............
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