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Help ! From Anyone Who Installed Mugen Header

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Old Sep 11, 2010 | 02:40 PM
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Default Help ! From Anyone Who Installed Mugen Header

Hi everyone, I've got my Mugen header installled on my ap1 today. I just can't get a good grip on the one locknut that attaches the header to the headat the flange.

It is one of the lower locknuts between cylinder 3 and 4. There are about 7 locknuts or so and I've got all but one torqued down. I've tried a wobbly extension, I've tried a 1/4 inch ratchet and extension, and a universal joint but I can't get a straight shot onto the nut. The header pipes are in the way and the socket ends up going in on an angle. I tried to access it from behind and below but there is no access. Can anyone recommend a way to access this nut ?, is there a particular tool that I'm missing ?. I don't want to start the car with one nut looser than the others as it may cause a leak or warpage. I can't believe no one else has had this issue with so many Mugen headers installed, it seems odd. Any advice would be helpful, thanks very much for any replies.
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Old Sep 11, 2010 | 04:30 PM
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It's been several years, but as I recall we actually pushed the engine toward the driver side to get the clearance we needed. Think we used the screw jack from the tool kit or perhaps a large pipe clamp/spreader. It shouldn't need to go too far, just an inch or two.
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Old Sep 11, 2010 | 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by twohoos,Sep 11 2010, 08:30 PM
It's been several years, but as I recall we actually pushed the engine toward the driver side to get the clearance we needed. Think we used the screw jack from the tool kit or perhaps a large pipe clamp/spreader. It shouldn't need to go too far, just an inch or two.
thanks for the reply, I resolved the clearance issue using the tire jack idea from an old tread of yours , lol. But that isn't my problem.

The issue I'm having is trying to get a tool onto one of the locknuts that connect at the flange, it is the nut that is on the lower side between cylinder 3 and 4. I just can't get a straight shot onto the nut with any tool and I don't want to strip it by cranking on it at an angle. The pipes just don't give you a clear shot at the locknut, I was lucky getting the nut on the stud by hand, now I want to torque it in place.
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Old Sep 11, 2010 | 05:39 PM
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Have you tried using the standard box wrench?
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Old Sep 11, 2010 | 05:44 PM
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that's what i was thinking (stop using ratcheting mechanisms), i don't recall having any issues swapping out my header...
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Old Sep 12, 2010 | 06:43 AM
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Today I got a box end wrench wiggled in between the pipes and then ran my arm behind the pipes to get it tightened down. It's a tight fit by I got it, and my box end wrench was ratcheting so that helps alot.

I'm not able to torque the nut to spec this way but I snugged it down tight and it will have to do. My problem yesterday was that I was trying to find a way to get a socket on the nut so I could torque down with a torque wrench like I did with the other 6 nuts.

Thanks for the tips everyone from everyone who replied !, this has saved me lots of time. Gotta love this site for all of the help we get when we're so frustrated that we can no longer see clearly, lol.
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