The left hand drive shaft is typically the one that pits on the inboard cup. Is the whole driveshaft broken? Or is it just one of the CVs? If the CV breaks it's usually the outer one. The actual shaft itself is quite beefy, it's unlikely to snap.

 

Oh, it's the axle shaft we are talking about.

 

yep axle shaft. Sorry got confused cause my mechanic first said it was tail

 

yeah, Honda and many mfgrs call the axles drive shafts and the driveshaft a prop shaft

You can buy new ones but they are expensive. You can also buy the cups and some of the rebuild parts for the joint new still. I would either go new OEM or used OEM for sure. There are typically plenty of used OEM ones out there.

But, if it was damaged by bottoming out it would be much more likely to have damaged the prop shaft. It would be harder to bottom out in a way that would contact the axle. If he is indeed talking about the prop shaft then that is much more expensive new, but used ones should be floating around.

 

Final update




Changed out for reconditioned oem ones and damnnnn the car drives like a dream now!

So torquey like I’m driving when the car when it’s ice cold outside. Shifts are now rock solid, car feels ultra smooth

I think I’ve been driving my s2k on a broken axleshaft for the last 7 years cause it’s somehow like a new car now

Not sure if placebo from driving a Tesla for the past 2 weeks however

 

it is impossible to have been driving it with that spindle broken. That just happened when you felt the issue and luckily when you were not moving fast as that would allow the hub/wheel to separate from the car A guy I know just lost his wheel on track due to the same failure, and luckily missed hitting anything and just spun the car at high speed. I am going to guess that axle was severely over torqued by someone, most likely trying to do the axle nut TSB and just going completely crazy with it and over stressed that spindle.

But that had nothing to do with anything related to shifting and also did not have anything to do with bottoming the car out on the driveway. Maybe just the act of trying to get it unstuck was the final straw.

 

It's almost like that shaft had some manufacturing issue. Inherent stress fatigue.

 

I have heard of a few people having this occur. Some say they had tightened the axle nut a while before it happened (like REALLY tightened it) and that recent one I saw was on a guys track car I know. I am not sure of details of how he last tightened his but some theorize that rear brake temps from track use (non vented rear rotors) contribute to fatigue on them as well but I still kinda think there has to be more at play than JUST heat but hard to say as I have only heard of a few. I know after I bought mine I found that someone had gone crazy with the axle nut TSB. When removing the axle nut, I was literally lifting the back wheel off the ground with a 46" breaker bar with another 3 feet of pipe hanging off the end. Ended up having to carefully cut and break the nut to remove it. So I suspect a lot of them are done this way and could contribute to fatigue.

 

Rrounds told me he had a spindle break on a road trip. Fortunately was not moving fast and could get it to a dealer for a fix. I don't recall if he said something about axle nut tightening.
I suspect I over did it the first time and went back and re-did it after Rrounds told me his story.

 

Man, to twist a heat-treated steel rod of that diameter to cause it to stress fracture is something!

Axles are not good things to break.