help changing brake fluid
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 37,305
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I've not seen one lately. Cthree had one on the old site version but that disappeared when this new version came. You can find the DIY for the clutch bleed in the FAQs. This will give you the general idea of how to do it. You start with the brake that is closest to the reservoir and work your way out further.
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 22,888
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From: Covington WA, USA
I just did this yesterday. If you have the right tools (a Motive Power Bleeder) it is very simple.
THIS IS FOR A FULL FLUSH:
1) jack the car up and take the wheels off
2) open brake fluid reservoir and (optionally) suck out some of the old fluid using a turkey baster or like instrument
3) Attach pressure bleeder to the master cylinder. Pump up with air to make sure seal is good. Release air pressure and dump about 1.5 pints of fluid into the bleeder. Repressurize (which will pump new fluid into the master cylinder reservoir)
4) attach a bleed tube to the driver's front bleed screw, running off to a jar to hold the fluid
5) crack bleed screw open (using a 10mm box wrench -- you can slide it up the tube or put it on the bleed screw before you attach the tube)
6) let fluid bleed out until new fluid appears in the tube
7) close bleed screw
8) repeat 4-7 on the passenger's front (check pressure in bleeder and repressurize as necessary, keep between 15 and 10 psi)
9) repeat 4-7 on the passenger's rear
10) repeat 4-7 on the driver's rear
11) if you are anal, repeat 4-10 "just to be sure" (only bleeding a little bit)
12) release pressure in the bleeder
13) tilt bleeder so the pickup is not in fluid, then repressurize bleeder
14) bleed some more, until fluid in the feed tube from the bleeder is gone (this is so it doesn't spill out when you take it off)
15) release pressure in the bleeder
16) remove bleeder
17) adjust level of fluid in master cylinder reservoir (either by sucking it out or adding it, as required) and put cap back on reservoir
18) put the little bleed valve caps back on, put wheels on, lower car
19) turn on engine and pump brakes a few times, to make sure accumulator is full
20) check parking brake function
21) test drive
THIS IS FOR A BLEED BUT NOT A FLUSH:
Same as above, except: just use air in the pressure bleeder. Top up the reservoir, then use air to pressurize it. Just bleed until there are no bubbles, not until you see new fluid. Use same order as above. Top up reservoir when finished.
TWO PERSON METHOD:
Described in Helm Manual. Use same order as described above. One person pumps and holds brakes while other person bleeds. Painfully slow to do a whole flush, but works fine for just a simple bleed. Remember to keep the reservoir topped off when you move from one brake to the next.
If you only do this every three years or so, you may want to use the two-person method. If you have more than one car or you bleed often (eg. track use), buy the pressure bleeder. I recommend the one from Motive Products. It takes some practice to set up and get a good seal, so practice with just air before you start pumping brake fluid all over your engine bay. Once you do it a few times, though, it becomes very simple and easy.
NOTE: it is best to bleed the brakes with new brake pads installed. Otherwise, when you later install new brake pads you will have to be sure to suck some of the fluid out of the reservoir before compressing the brake pistons.
THIS IS FOR A FULL FLUSH:
1) jack the car up and take the wheels off
2) open brake fluid reservoir and (optionally) suck out some of the old fluid using a turkey baster or like instrument
3) Attach pressure bleeder to the master cylinder. Pump up with air to make sure seal is good. Release air pressure and dump about 1.5 pints of fluid into the bleeder. Repressurize (which will pump new fluid into the master cylinder reservoir)
4) attach a bleed tube to the driver's front bleed screw, running off to a jar to hold the fluid
5) crack bleed screw open (using a 10mm box wrench -- you can slide it up the tube or put it on the bleed screw before you attach the tube)
6) let fluid bleed out until new fluid appears in the tube
7) close bleed screw
8) repeat 4-7 on the passenger's front (check pressure in bleeder and repressurize as necessary, keep between 15 and 10 psi)
9) repeat 4-7 on the passenger's rear
10) repeat 4-7 on the driver's rear
11) if you are anal, repeat 4-10 "just to be sure" (only bleeding a little bit)
12) release pressure in the bleeder
13) tilt bleeder so the pickup is not in fluid, then repressurize bleeder
14) bleed some more, until fluid in the feed tube from the bleeder is gone (this is so it doesn't spill out when you take it off)
15) release pressure in the bleeder
16) remove bleeder
17) adjust level of fluid in master cylinder reservoir (either by sucking it out or adding it, as required) and put cap back on reservoir
18) put the little bleed valve caps back on, put wheels on, lower car
19) turn on engine and pump brakes a few times, to make sure accumulator is full
20) check parking brake function
21) test drive
THIS IS FOR A BLEED BUT NOT A FLUSH:
Same as above, except: just use air in the pressure bleeder. Top up the reservoir, then use air to pressurize it. Just bleed until there are no bubbles, not until you see new fluid. Use same order as above. Top up reservoir when finished.
TWO PERSON METHOD:
Described in Helm Manual. Use same order as described above. One person pumps and holds brakes while other person bleeds. Painfully slow to do a whole flush, but works fine for just a simple bleed. Remember to keep the reservoir topped off when you move from one brake to the next.
If you only do this every three years or so, you may want to use the two-person method. If you have more than one car or you bleed often (eg. track use), buy the pressure bleeder. I recommend the one from Motive Products. It takes some practice to set up and get a good seal, so practice with just air before you start pumping brake fluid all over your engine bay. Once you do it a few times, though, it becomes very simple and easy.
NOTE: it is best to bleed the brakes with new brake pads installed. Otherwise, when you later install new brake pads you will have to be sure to suck some of the fluid out of the reservoir before compressing the brake pistons.
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Joined: Apr 2004
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From: The Upper MidWest
Don't forget these tips from The Reverend on brake bleeding....
http://reverendsgarage.net/index.php?conte...leed_brakes.php
-Justin
http://reverendsgarage.net/index.php?conte...leed_brakes.php
-Justin
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From: Vegas Baby, Vegas
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From: South Jersey
Originally Posted by Ludedude,Jan 9 2005, 04:00 AM