Help! Header installation.
I've just bought a header(used) from the other member on board. I'm gonna put that on this weekend. Here are the questios:
1.) Do I need to get a new gasket for the header(it's a used one)??
2.) How hard is it to put it on by myself??
3.) What else do I need?
Thanks for helping!!
1.) Do I need to get a new gasket for the header(it's a used one)??
2.) How hard is it to put it on by myself??
3.) What else do I need?
Thanks for helping!!
Here are a few things I learned while performing this same install about 5 months ago.
1) Let the car sit over night ... you want the engine cold.
2) get the car as high in the air as you can - ramps or jack stands. The higher the better! You will install the new header from below.
3) Get all new gaskets.
4) The bolt on the black factory heat shield closest to the fire wall does not need to be totally removed, you can loosen it and remove the shield by lifting up once all the other bolts are removed. This bolt fit into a slot on the shield.
5) In my case, I found it much easier to support the engine with a floor jack and remove the motor mount located under the header. Don't let this bother you ... it's really easy. Others have used a bottle jack and "jacked" the engine towards the drivers side to allow clearance for the header ... this just didn't work for me and I ended up removing the motor mount. W/o doing either one of these steps, you will not get the header in.
6) line up the header with the header bolts off the engine first and then loosely connect the cat. section. Once these were all lined up, I tightened the engine header bolts first and then the cat./springs bolts next.
That's about it ... everything else is straight forward. I don't recall the torque of the header bolts - on the engine side - I think they are 20 something pounds each.
Take your time ... it will take about 3 hours or so.
Hope this helps,
- J
1) Let the car sit over night ... you want the engine cold.
2) get the car as high in the air as you can - ramps or jack stands. The higher the better! You will install the new header from below.
3) Get all new gaskets.
4) The bolt on the black factory heat shield closest to the fire wall does not need to be totally removed, you can loosen it and remove the shield by lifting up once all the other bolts are removed. This bolt fit into a slot on the shield.
5) In my case, I found it much easier to support the engine with a floor jack and remove the motor mount located under the header. Don't let this bother you ... it's really easy. Others have used a bottle jack and "jacked" the engine towards the drivers side to allow clearance for the header ... this just didn't work for me and I ended up removing the motor mount. W/o doing either one of these steps, you will not get the header in.
6) line up the header with the header bolts off the engine first and then loosely connect the cat. section. Once these were all lined up, I tightened the engine header bolts first and then the cat./springs bolts next.
That's about it ... everything else is straight forward. I don't recall the torque of the header bolts - on the engine side - I think they are 20 something pounds each.
Take your time ... it will take about 3 hours or so.
Hope this helps,
- J
1. If you haven't removed your stock header yet, I think it's still fine to reuse the old gasket. You could always get a new one for extra security: The donut gasket for the bottom, and the gasket on top.
2. It's easier if you have two people, but you can do most of the work on your own.
3. Replace the old nuts, donut gasket, and the header gasket. Torque wrench, wd40 for the nuts,
Jaysom - I don't see why you had to remove the engine mounts, that's completly unnessarry.
Heres what i did.
- Remove the black heatshield
- Remove the header heatshield
- Remove the nuts connecting from the header
- Jacked the car high enough to get under the car and remove the two bolts connnecting from the Cat to the header.
- Remove the (2) o2 sensors
The header should just come out easy with little effort. It should come out from the bottom if memory serves correctly
2. It's easier if you have two people, but you can do most of the work on your own.
3. Replace the old nuts, donut gasket, and the header gasket. Torque wrench, wd40 for the nuts,
Jaysom - I don't see why you had to remove the engine mounts, that's completly unnessarry.
Heres what i did.
- Remove the black heatshield
- Remove the header heatshield
- Remove the nuts connecting from the header
- Jacked the car high enough to get under the car and remove the two bolts connnecting from the Cat to the header.
- Remove the (2) o2 sensors
The header should just come out easy with little effort. It should come out from the bottom if memory serves correctly
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MajorHavoc
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