i had this very same problem, i got a pry bar and used muscle

 

Well luckily I have access to a 5' pry bar...

I stood on the rotor this morning, moved slightly, and I weigh about 203lb.

Where is the best place for the fulcrum of the pry bar, as close to the jack point as I can get it? That seems the only place I can get it across between the rotor and the bottom of the strut.

 

I released the lower ball joint.
Then i fixed a monkey wrench to the arm's edge and droped it with the help of a rod. That worked for me...
Good luck.

 

make sure that both front tires are jacked up

i had this problem and it was because the other tire was pushing up on the sway bar causing the other side to come up.

once you jack up both fronts this side should automatically come down.

 

The car is still in my garage as I type with the front lifted on jack stands at the frame rails on both sides. I'm cutting out of work early today with my newly acquired 5' pry bar

I haven't put any major forces on the control arm from fear of damaging something.

Thanks for the heads up though. I have the other side done and jacked as well up to the point of putting the tire back on and lowering it and torqing the lugs to spec.

 

Pry bar did it. Thanks for the tip guys. All 4 corners are on now.

Edit: Answered my own question via service manual. I have stripped the bolt on the lower side of the front stabalizer link. Detached it to help lower the control arm, and stripped it when I forced it out. Couldn't tell I was stripping it at the time because of low light. Note to self, buy a work light. It is on order and was a $34 mistake. Oh well.

Other than that, time to adjust the height today. The front is way to dumped, its about an inch up into the wheel well, and the rear has a two finger gap. Gotta play with it till I get a finger gap all the way around.