How do I "turn the engine"?
Originally Posted by HonCBRf2' date='Jan 26 2009, 05:37 PM
it will make the turn easier with the plugs out since you will be building up compression when the motor turns with the plugs in.
how long is the car going to be sitting for????
how long is the car going to be sitting for????
If you've ever installed a freshly built motor with no oil in it already, you know how long you have to sit and crank the motor with the starter before it builds oil pressure.
Even after doing an oil change, it takes a lot of crank rotations to spin the oil pump enough before the motor actually builds any kind of pressure.
Anytime i change the oil in a car, or install a fresh build, or install a motor that has been sitting for a LONG time (much longer than 4 months, like any "jdm" motor that you buy from an importer to swap into a Civic), i always disconnect the injectors (not the spark plugs, you could damage the coils, or coil if you have an old civic motor) or pull the fuel pump fuse if easier to get to than the injectors, and crank the motor over in short intervals until the oil pressure light goes out, or i show proper oil pressure in a car equipped with a good gauge.
Generally in a new build you have assembly lube, but in a motor thats been sitting for a short while, there is still enough residual oil where you can crank the motor with the starter without causing any wear... after all, the crank doesn't spin THAT fast with the starter. Now, if you actually started the motor with no oil pressure, or after sitting for a good long time, it would crank and spin really fast with a lot of force without oil, and definitely could cause damage.
Once you have oil pressure, you're good to go, just plug your injectors back in, and crank it up.
Getting enough oil pressure or flow by hand to first of all fill the oil galley that feeds the mains/rods with enough oil to build enough pressure to finally feed the journals with oil would take you HOURS (practically
) of cranking by hand with a ratchet... Good luck with that
Anyway, thats my $.02
Even after doing an oil change, it takes a lot of crank rotations to spin the oil pump enough before the motor actually builds any kind of pressure.
Anytime i change the oil in a car, or install a fresh build, or install a motor that has been sitting for a LONG time (much longer than 4 months, like any "jdm" motor that you buy from an importer to swap into a Civic), i always disconnect the injectors (not the spark plugs, you could damage the coils, or coil if you have an old civic motor) or pull the fuel pump fuse if easier to get to than the injectors, and crank the motor over in short intervals until the oil pressure light goes out, or i show proper oil pressure in a car equipped with a good gauge.
Generally in a new build you have assembly lube, but in a motor thats been sitting for a short while, there is still enough residual oil where you can crank the motor with the starter without causing any wear... after all, the crank doesn't spin THAT fast with the starter. Now, if you actually started the motor with no oil pressure, or after sitting for a good long time, it would crank and spin really fast with a lot of force without oil, and definitely could cause damage.
Once you have oil pressure, you're good to go, just plug your injectors back in, and crank it up.
Getting enough oil pressure or flow by hand to first of all fill the oil galley that feeds the mains/rods with enough oil to build enough pressure to finally feed the journals with oil would take you HOURS (practically
) of cranking by hand with a ratchet... Good luck with that
Anyway, thats my $.02
Originally Posted by slipstream444' date='Jan 26 2009, 05:02 PM
This should be done in conjunction with and after pulling the spark plugs and spraying a little engine fogging oil into the cylinders. I left my plugs loose to allow easy periodic removal and to make rolling over the motor effortless (no compression load with no oil pressure). It's easy.
1) How much oil are you spraying in? Can I use motor oil as a substitute?
2) Is there a concern for "oil-lockup" when I do restart?
3) Do you spray first then turn the engine? or does it mater and how many times are you turning the engine over? should I spray a little after each turn?
The final question is: is this overkill? I am "waking" her up in April and from a past xviper post he stated that cars can be stored for 6 months without needing any fogging. What are you thoughts?
THanks!
I've used oil in the spark plug holes - but you need to be careful how much you put in. The oil will eventually make it's way past the rings over time and won't cause a FUTURE oil hydrolock condition, but I would not immediately try to crank the engine over with the spark plugs in (either by hand or by starter) if you suspect you've put too much oil in. Rolling the engine over by hand with the spark plugs OUT will give you a good indication if you've put too much in - you'll see it come come up to or out of the plug hole if you've put an excessive amount in. In this case - DO NOT TRY TO TURN THE MOTOR OVER AT ALL WITH THE SPARK PLUGS INSTALLED. Either use a vacuum source to suck some of the oil out or let it sit for a few days to drain down into the pan.
Spraying fogging oil into the engine intake with it running will foul the plugs (if that's what you mentioned). Excessive amounts sprayed into the intake can cause fouling at startup as well - due to the oil pooling and being burned at once. It should cause no problems if you spray a light coating into the cylinders through spark plug holes though - a short 2 second blast is all that's needed.
Turn the motor over with the injectors disconnected (as ComposiMo stated) before you restart the engine. Using the starter to crank the engine over (spark plugs out/coil packs disconnected, and injectors disconnected) to build oil pressure is a good idea if your car has been sitting for a long period. Another thing to consider is to do the clutch interlock bypass mod to allow you to start/crank the engine without the clutch being depressed - this prevents excessive zero oil pressure wear on the thrust washers/bearings on dry starts and prolongs the life of your thrust bearings/washers over time. Here's the link:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=619847
At any rate, a light fogging into the spark plug holes is not a bad idea and won't cause the fouling problems you've had before by fogging the intake.
Spraying fogging oil into the engine intake with it running will foul the plugs (if that's what you mentioned). Excessive amounts sprayed into the intake can cause fouling at startup as well - due to the oil pooling and being burned at once. It should cause no problems if you spray a light coating into the cylinders through spark plug holes though - a short 2 second blast is all that's needed.
Turn the motor over with the injectors disconnected (as ComposiMo stated) before you restart the engine. Using the starter to crank the engine over (spark plugs out/coil packs disconnected, and injectors disconnected) to build oil pressure is a good idea if your car has been sitting for a long period. Another thing to consider is to do the clutch interlock bypass mod to allow you to start/crank the engine without the clutch being depressed - this prevents excessive zero oil pressure wear on the thrust washers/bearings on dry starts and prolongs the life of your thrust bearings/washers over time. Here's the link:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=619847
At any rate, a light fogging into the spark plug holes is not a bad idea and won't cause the fouling problems you've had before by fogging the intake.
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