How to tell if your hub is bad.
02-25-2012, 06:37 PM
#11
Registered User
Thanks for the replies, that sounds good, reassuring to know many cars can still be saved. 
My only concern now is that I did it under the previous discussions and TSB recommendation using 240 ft lbs, the axle nut moved maybe 25 degrees ?. Time to pick up a 3/4 inch breaker bar, lol.
My only concern now is that I did it under the previous discussions and TSB recommendation using 240 ft lbs, the axle nut moved maybe 25 degrees ?. Time to pick up a 3/4 inch breaker bar, lol.
http://www.amazon.com/Z-Red-MR34-Tel.../dp/B0021UL1ZK
03-03-2013, 10:06 AM
#12
Im revive this one. I think I'm having this problem and will be changing both rear bearings and hubs and will rotate the axles in the process. I was curious about where I could take the bearing/hub to be changed or is there a DIY solution. Also what is the expected cost associated with this procedure, I don't want to take it to anyone as I can remove and install the rear components myself, just need insight on the bearing press. Thanks
04-05-2015, 04:23 AM
#13
The hardest part is getting the knuckle level while you press the bearing in. When you get the bearing you'll see how easily the inner race moves. This is why you must use the outer race to press in the bearing, and support the inner race when pressing in the hub. You'll also have to remove 3 ball joints per wheel, some are a little tricky to remove the castle nuts, particularly the toe arms.
Other than that, there's a snap ring in the knuckle, don't forget to disconnect the wheel speed sensor. If you're good you're looking at a 2-3hr job, most shops charge ~$200 labor, and close to $400 in parts. You can save money buying the Oem nsk bearing not from Honda, if you buy from the bearing manufacturer(nsk) make sure you get the bearing with half rubber half metal seal. The OEM hubs are cast iron, the replacement ones are made of steel and cost a lot less. The steel ones don't rust, but I would stick to Oem because they chose that material(cast iron) for a reason.
Your experience will be positive if the bearing is properly installed with fresh hubs, more than anything else.
Other than that, there's a snap ring in the knuckle, don't forget to disconnect the wheel speed sensor. If you're good you're looking at a 2-3hr job, most shops charge ~$200 labor, and close to $400 in parts. You can save money buying the Oem nsk bearing not from Honda, if you buy from the bearing manufacturer(nsk) make sure you get the bearing with half rubber half metal seal. The OEM hubs are cast iron, the replacement ones are made of steel and cost a lot less. The steel ones don't rust, but I would stick to Oem because they chose that material(cast iron) for a reason.
Your experience will be positive if the bearing is properly installed with fresh hubs, more than anything else.
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