Subscribed for future reference material when the day comes to upgrade the clutch in my 06

 

Billman, thx for clarifying that impact is safe here. I was afraid it would snap the bolts.

How much finesse is required when using the impact here? You mention stopping when bolt slows.

How easy is it to screw this up and snap a bolt?

 

I snapped the rear forward (M14) bolt in my previously winter driven S2000.

I used a powerful IR impact to get it as far as possible. Cycled up and down a few times. Loaded the threads with PB blast via the small holes in the frame.

I had to use a breaker bar and....yeah snapped.

So I drilled it out and invented cunning methods along the way.

I would drill, then tap M12 threads into the bolt cavity and break that section of bolt out by impacting a M12 bolt into there. Since the walls of the receiving thread in the bolt were thin from drilling, it just came out like a sleeve, without hurting the threads.









And I kept going until it was all out.

No damage to my threads on the nut. Just chased it with a tap to make it ultra smooth.

Trick is centering the hole and using a VERY good set of bits. And having MASSIVE upper body endurance....or a lift.

Or just be more patient and careful like Billman is recommending.

 

Thanks for sharing your expertise and experiences guys
I'll use my smaller Milwaukee M12 stubby instead of the big boy so I don't force anything and I'll report back.
I'll be mindful of pressure and heat

 

Woo got both bolts out.

The passenger side came out alot easier, but still required way more than 4-5 passes.

Lowered the subframe 0.5" and supported it with a jack.
Went going up and down on the bolt with an impact.
Hit it a little past the point of resistance and brought it back up, spraying the upper threads frequently with penetrating fluid.
I did take breaks in between and did the bolt on the other side as I didn't want to introduce too much heat to the bolts.

Took me a couple hours and I did other odd jobs in between, but my patience was rewarded and both bolts eventually came out with all the threads in great shape. The bolts didn't seem to have much rust or grime on em, but I cleaned them up, applied some anti seize and they torqued down with no issue.

Thanks again everyone

 

Should those of us with low mileage cars work these bolts every now and then to maybe prevent this from happening?

 

Yes, just remove one at a time clean and anti-seize.

 

Use same torque figures after applying the anti-seize?

 

This might be the excuse to go out and get an impact wrench.

Billman, any favorites?

 

Milwaukee M18 Fuel 1/2" brushless cordless impact. Beats air powered impacts easily. This thing will remove your axle nuts, crank pulley bolt, etc, with ease.