What is the torque spec for these subframe bolts?

 

I had no issues with torque and anti-seize.
Just make sure you dont glob it on. I just put some on the top 25% of the threads and let fastening distribute the rest.

I use the Milwaukee M12 1/2" stubby, it gets most things off on the S - including my all 12 of my subframe bolts. It's small and light so you can fit it into more areas.
I borrowed my buddies M18 1/2" and there is a lot less use on this car due to limited spacing.

Torque specs:

 

Milwaukee M18 1/2" High Torque Impact Wrench w/ Friction Ring 2767-20 works for me.

 

Milwaukee M18 1/2 drive, 1400 ft-lbs. The gun puts all air guns to shame. I can pull trans and wheels all week and not even charge the battery once.

 

Thanks for all this helpfull messages!

 

They should be fine with the same torque as the manual states, even with anti-seize. There's seems to be a large factor of safety present.

 

Just checked all subframe bolts and some of them were not easy, but all are treated with anti-seize and torqued. Thanks for posting.

 

Thank you! This post helped me a lot. We were attempting to do the clutch on our 2001 S2000 and got all the way to the last front subframe bolt and it would only come out 1/4". I got very nervous about breaking the bolt and stopped to do research. This technique worked for me. I kept tightening and loosening and using penetrating oil. Eventually I could get it out with my impact gun safely. Then I discovered it was the wrong bolt.


The one on the left is what came out. The one of the right is what it should have been.

I bought all new bolts for the middle and the front. I think I am going to do the back now too. I started putting the car back together because I thought I would need to take it to a shop. But I think we will keep going now.

Thanks again for sharing this.

I hand threaded back in the new bolt and it went in fine and I was able to torque it to spec. So I think I am good. That incorrect bolt did not seem to damage the threads.

 

@Car Analogy and @Scigheras you both mention cutting into the frame rail and one of you used nuts( in plural).
2 questions :

1- did you cut/access from the wheel well side or engine bay side?
2- does the bolt run up a shaft to the nut or is open/exposed inside the frame rail?

@everyone does anyone have a picture of the open frame rails while performing this surgery?

thanks!

 

sounds like I’ll add this to the list next time I’m on this lift.

although, my car has spent it’s life in FL. I don’t expect any issues. Just paying it forward