Jacking up the car for an oil change
Hey guys, just wondering whether it's absolutely necessary for the s2k to be on level ground when doing an oil change? I have two ramps that I'll be using and I'll be doing everything from the engine bay (removing the airbox) so wanted to know if I could get away with just using the two ramps or whether i need to make another two for the rear?
Saw this link below re changing oil and it looks like the guy didn't jack up the back -
https://howtune.com/articles/90-chan...-a-honda-s2000
ps. I'm thinking of going from a synthetic 5w40 (penrite australian brand) to the honda feo 10w30. No issues going synthetic to mineral and possibly back to synth in the future?
Thanks
Saw this link below re changing oil and it looks like the guy didn't jack up the back -
https://howtune.com/articles/90-chan...-a-honda-s2000
ps. I'm thinking of going from a synthetic 5w40 (penrite australian brand) to the honda feo 10w30. No issues going synthetic to mineral and possibly back to synth in the future?
Thanks
Do the drain and filter change on the ramps, then lower it to level ground for the fill. It has to be on level ground to accurately read the dip stick. Chock the rear wheels and use the e-brake for safety.
You can switch oils back and forth however you wish, there won't be any ill-effects.
You can switch oils back and forth however you wish, there won't be any ill-effects.
When I do mine, I jack up the front right to undo the drain plug then lower it down to let it drip empty.
Jack the front right up, plug back in, lower down and fill.
Also - irrelevant to the question, but it's quite cold in Australia now.. maybe a lower W number would be better during the cold season.
Jack the front right up, plug back in, lower down and fill.
Also - irrelevant to the question, but it's quite cold in Australia now.. maybe a lower W number would be better during the cold season.
Get a Fumoto valve, never torque again, no leaks, change your oil from the open engine bay not needing to get under the car except sliding an oil pan, never burn your hands or drop the bolt in hot oil. Never leaks. Can't believe I went so many years without them. Put them on several of my current cars.

Read this and you will find your answer about 0w,5w, 10w oil.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/

Read this and you will find your answer about 0w,5w, 10w oil.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/
Man that looks awesome! wish I saw your post before changing the oil! Had a really tough time getting the sump plug loose (doing it all from open engine bay not under the car). Will definitely get one for the next service.
Changed my oil and decided to stay with the 5w40 synthetic. I think I put in ~ 5.4/5.5L of oil, so much for the "experts" at the auto store telling me I need 4.8L. The oil level is also so bloody hard to read when the oil is new, the one I bought is almost colorless so it was a b*** trying to see what my level was at. I cleaned my MAP (added zip ties), IAC and PCV valve with throttle body/carb cleaner and the car is running nice and smooth now
Just wish the s2k had a quieter engine and none of the ticks, squeaks and rattles that come with a f20c :/
Changed my oil and decided to stay with the 5w40 synthetic. I think I put in ~ 5.4/5.5L of oil, so much for the "experts" at the auto store telling me I need 4.8L. The oil level is also so bloody hard to read when the oil is new, the one I bought is almost colorless so it was a b*** trying to see what my level was at. I cleaned my MAP (added zip ties), IAC and PCV valve with throttle body/carb cleaner and the car is running nice and smooth now
Just wish the s2k had a quieter engine and none of the ticks, squeaks and rattles that come with a f20c :/
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There have been several horror stories regarding this valve and I'd personally not use it unless it was safety wired closed. Which defeats the whole purpose of the valve.
Worst case scenarios seldom occur but can be catastrophic when then do. If you change every 5,000 miles (the spec is 7,500) and drive 100,000 miles you'll only need to go under the car 20 times in your lifetime. I'm running a little over 5,000 miles a summer which means this would take 20 years.
If you change the oil and filter (even Honda filters are cheap) you need to replace it with 5.1 US Quarts (4.8L) of oil. Unless you forgot to close the valve or replace the drain plug the dip stick will show Full even if you can't see it. No need to obsess about this, just dump in 5.1 quarts (4.8L) and as my Canuck buddies say "Bob's your uncle." We buy oil in 5 quart bottles here and we need an extra quart to get the extra 3.2 ounces (0.1 quart). I use the remaining oil to top up the engine during the season. If oil comes in 5 liter bottles in OZ you're good to go, just don't put in the whole bottle.
I wish BTOG had footnoted his article (or maybe I missed it).
-- Chuck
Worst case scenarios seldom occur but can be catastrophic when then do. If you change every 5,000 miles (the spec is 7,500) and drive 100,000 miles you'll only need to go under the car 20 times in your lifetime. I'm running a little over 5,000 miles a summer which means this would take 20 years.If you change the oil and filter (even Honda filters are cheap) you need to replace it with 5.1 US Quarts (4.8L) of oil. Unless you forgot to close the valve or replace the drain plug the dip stick will show Full even if you can't see it. No need to obsess about this, just dump in 5.1 quarts (4.8L) and as my Canuck buddies say "Bob's your uncle." We buy oil in 5 quart bottles here and we need an extra quart to get the extra 3.2 ounces (0.1 quart). I use the remaining oil to top up the engine during the season. If oil comes in 5 liter bottles in OZ you're good to go, just don't put in the whole bottle.
I wish BTOG had footnoted his article (or maybe I missed it).
-- Chuck
Put one on my car, the subframe kind of blocks any straight shot at the valve. So maybe if I took my S offroading, I'd think twice. Whatever I run over has to go through the subframe, and if you have a broken subframe you have bigger problems than a lopped off valve.
My biggest fear is someone messing with it and draining all my oil.
My biggest fear is someone messing with it and draining all my oil.
And don't forget to chaek both sides of the dip stick, this is the only car I've ever had that one side of the dip stick reads different than the other. Always go by the low side. You don't want to think you have oil and your two qt's low just because the dip stick reads funny.
ROD
ROD











