When an engine is stored for a long time, there is next to no oil on any of the critical surfaces. Cranking the engine over for a "couple of clicks" may be even far worse than cranking it over for a longer period of time. Not only will there be no oil being pushed to anything, the rings will scrape off whatever film there may be left with little possibility to replenish that film.
Just think about the journey oil must travel for an engine that has been sitting idle for weeks on end, where almost all of that oil has fallen into the oil pan. It must be pumped out of the pump, through the filter, then on to the oiljets, crank journals, upper engine parts. A couple of clicks of the starter motor will barely fill the pipe between the oil pump and the oil filter. This passageway may be partially occupied by oil if left for a few days, maybe even a couple of weeks, but left longer, the oil will most likely seep out. (This is the way I see it. Perhaps someone else will prove me wrong.)

 

Definately jack it up and set some traps to keep the pest away.

 

I think you're right on the mark Xviper. My mechanic and I talked about this for about 15 minutes and both he and I agreed that occasional starts would do significantly more damage than letting the car sit there for 2 years. Bumping the starter a couple of times is no different and just produces wear. If the cylinder is 'fogged' or has oil squirted via the spark plug hole, the film should prevent the cylinders from freezing even in the most humid of climates. He made other suggestions such as leaving the plugs out but placing oil soaked rags in the top of the coil pack holes.

Mouse traps are a great idea and will be widely implemented.

A question about the top ... I own a hard top but wondered if leaving the soft top retracted for two years would be hard on it (hard top on) ... or should I store it with the soft top up? The soft top will be treated with 303 convertible top treatment either way.

I'll be disposing of the OEM battery before I leave. I'll probably purchase a dry cell before I go, fully charge it and store it above the concrete surface. I understand dry cells will hold their charge for up to 6 years in storage. Either that or I'll just pick up a new battery after I return.

At this point though ... I was a little more interested in specifics dealing with S2000 and long term storage ... as in: is there anything that you need to do "in addition to" or "in lieu of" when storing the S2000?

 

My hardtop is generally on the car for 6 months of every year and in the spring, I do notice that the crease is quite dramatic and it takes a few weeks of top up and down to make the crease less evident. But since you do not have a plastic window, this is not a concern and I'm very confident that the soft top itself will survive quite well for 2 years folded. However, as a precautionary step, after 2 years when you bring the car back, I would not lift the top up untill it has spent some good warm up time under the sun in the folded position. This will soften up the vinyl and ensure a healthy unfolding.
I'd also put bags of moth balls in strategic locations all over the car as a final deterent for those little critters.

 

I recommend spraying ATF into the cylinders, and hand cranking the engine a few revs to ditribute it - it is a tenacious fluid and has lots of silicone in it to guard against corrosion. It is benign - just a puff of white smoke when you start her up.

I also recommend getting some metal screening, making a small bag out of it with a wire tie to secure. Break up a small flower pot, and make 3 bags filled with the debris - one in each exhaust outlet, one in the airbox near the inlet. Varmints will eat through steel wool, but not the grating of ceramic.

I would not have the springs hanging suspended for that long - I would remove the wheels and keep the car on jack stands. The wheels and tires can then be cleaned, and sprayed with 303, and placed in a HD lawn trash bag.

I would keep the recirc button closed, and use dessicant bags available from Mcmaster Carr, Eastwoods, etc. to keep the interior humidity stable.

Clean and condition the seats (remember the cleaning - body salts wreak havoc on fine leather.

Before you re-start, pull the ignition coil supply fuse, and bump the car over to prime the oil.

I would also drain and refill the crankcase with Red Line - the esters will stay on the metal thrugh polar attraction.

 

I picture 2-yr-old dead mice in these mice traps, unless someone is around to check them and reset them.

 

i dont want you to go through all this trouble... just drop your car off and ill take care of it

 

Fantastic suggestions - thanks Road Rage and Xviper for the more serious approach, and for those keeping it light.
I'm going to hate being away from my little car and hate to store it. But then again, I can't imagine ever getting rid of her either.
With all of the great input, she should be good as new when I get home.
Thanks again.

 

Slipstream: Are you in the Armed Services? If so, hats off to you, and I hope you a safe and productive journey.

 

Slalom44, I'm in the Navy and I appreciate the well wishes.
Thanks.