slipstream444

I'm going to be in the Middle East for 2 years and will not be selling my S2000. I have drooling family and friends lining up to 'take care' of my car for me ... but frankly, my car will be better off in storage. I've stored cars for 6-8 months before, but wanted to know if anyone had any long term storage tips specifically for the S2000.

Thanks.

RZFD

I'll "store" it for you. change the oil and trow some fuel stabilizer in the gas tank. Give it a good washing/wax and throw it under a cover.

hondaS2001

If it is indoors and safe, keep the windows cracked. If you can, keep it off its tires/rims and jacked up. If possible, get a key made (without the immobilizer chip , you can get it from the dealer and tell them you just want it cut not coded) and if its possible, have someone go there every so often to use that key to crank the motor. That key will not start the car but will allow the motor to be turned over. When you go to get it back, if possible, at least change the engine oil on the spot if not the tranny and diff fluid as well. There are quite a few other things you can do and Im sure others will chime in.

slalom44

I'd add the following to the list of things to do to your car:

• Put the car up on blocks, taking the weight off of the springs and tires.
• Disconnect the battery and keep it out of the cold and off of the concrete floor. If possible, keep it on a trickle charger or preferably use a battery desulfator.
• After your final oil change, drive the car until your engine has been warmed up for at least 20 minutes, then park it. Don't start it and run it for a few minutes or less - this will result in moisture & condensation in your exhaust.
• Take the spark plugs out and spray some cylinder mist or fog in each cylinder. I'm not sure of the exact name of the product, but you'll find it at auto parts stores. It will prevent corrosion in the cylinders. Replace your plugs and coil packs.
• Cover your car to prevent an accumulation of dust.
• Place mouse traps around the car, and possibly under the hood. Rat poison isn't a bad idea either. You don't want some rodent chewing up your wires or making a nest in your intake.
• Do not have anyone start your car once the cylinders are fogged. Each start will be a very dry start and do a fair amount of wear. It will also likely be a brief running, which will add more condensation to the exhaust system.
• Treat all of the rubber seals with Shin-etsu grease, silicone grease like Sil-Glyde, or something equivalent. You don't want your rubber components to dry rot while you're gone. Spray your CV boots with Silicone & wipe off.
• Store your car with the gas tank filled. This will minimiize moisture & corrosion in your fuel tank.

2000celicaspeed

to prevent moisture on the head and other ening internals i have known of people that fill the enigne completly with oil......that was on old muslce cars and stuf and then drain it off and refill with good stuff when ready to go!

Sideways

Probably an old IRON muscle car. I wouldn't suggest that.

xviper

I'm not so sure it's all that good for the car to be jacked up and "unsprung" for 2 years. If it were me, I'd jack it up only very slightly to lesson the load a bit and to prevent the car from settling down on a wheel in the event of total tire pressure loss, pump up the tires to about 45 psi and have a piece of thick carpet under each of them.

Also, I'm not comfy with this cranking the motor every so often. This doesn't turn the motor over fast enough to give good oil pressure. Certainly not enough to lubricate all the dry parts. You'd be doing worse than a cold start every time.

slipstream444

Thanks for all of the info folks.
Some of these tips I've used before, and some of them ... I'll have to do some studying on before putting them in practice .

Xviper, you're the second person that's mentioned not totally lifting the car until it's unsprung ... (Brad W. being the other) and I'm going to have to take that to heart. Brad mentioned I should use my stock wheels with the worn out tires and just slightly unload the suspension.
I've heard of fogging the cylinders or pulling the plugs and putting a small amount of oil in the cylinder and then turn the motor over a couple of times.
No one is going to be available to occasionally crank the car, and I agree with those who feel that's not a good idea.
A mechanic friend of mine told me to change the oil and drive it for less than 100 miles, take it the storage facility ... change it again, slightly overfill it ... either fog the cylinders or squirt some oil in it (as noted above), turn the motor over a couple of times (with the fuel injector solenoid pulled) and then put her to bed.
He mentioned that since most storage places do not allow fuel to be in stored cars, he told me to use a good fuel stabilizer and run it into the fuel system, drain the fuel tank as much as possible, fog the tank, and then place an oil penetrated rag in the fuel inlet. That way the fuel in the lines will be preserved (as much as it can), the tank will be protected from most corrosion, and the tank will be slowly ventilated - preventing condensation. He also mentioned to place the plugs in loosely.
He also mentioned it would be a good idea to have the cooling system flushed and filled with about a 70% mixture to help prevent corrosion in the cooling system (and flush it again after I returned). I asked if it would be a good idea to drain the coolant completely, and he thought the remaining moisture in a drained system coupled with stale air would create an environment more conducive to corrosion than if the system were fully filled with a high concentration of coolant.

Thanks again ...

xviper

If you put oil in the cylinders and decide to crank it a few times, do it ONLY with the plugs OUT or you'll get the equivalent of hydrolock (would that be called oil lock? ). Also, you only need to pull the fuel pump fuse to prevent any fuel from being injected.


As for the cooling system, you have a MY'03. That coolant in there is supposedly good for 10 years. Also, this car has a "closed" system. There should be no air (or very little) in it. Make sure the overflow reservoir has adequate coolant to keep the suck up pipe submerged. If in doubt, check both bleed valves to burp out any air that might be trapped. Do this with cabin heat to HOT, engine running at operating temp. Even simpler, go for a brisk drive with the heat set to HOT, fill overflow and let cool and you're set to go for 2 years.

hondaS2001

I didnt mean that someone would sit there and crank it for a few minutes etc etc. I was told that a couple "clicks" of turning the motor over would be beneficial to the piston rings if the car was being stored for quite some time, is this true or did they give bad advice?