njmatt

I have similar issues Recently changed my transmission after that everything went downhill, When installed my new transmission i broke pressure plate bolt 3rd day or so I get massive vibration at idle and also when i accelerate vibration is there. I can feel it in gas pedal, brake clutch etc, My dashboard vibrates my doors vibrates even my rear view mirror vibrates when i press on gas, After I broke P Plate bolt I drove car like that for 500 miles, After i changed everything clutch pressure plate fork , throw out bearing, Vibration is still there. Cant figure out what it is , Changed plugs already, checked timing, Next thing ill do is change coils and coil harness.
Today after i floor it my car started to bug out i got scared shut it off , So it seems my engine soon will take big dump/ or something is about to fail , after i shut car off it seems to work same. but no bugging out , People telling me its megan engine mounts i know its not, I drove on them for 3 months before clutch change had no vibration. I have no check engine lights etc only p0411 due to faulty ecu , air pump
I Also notice power loss as well.
This sucks because I got turbo install this Saturday...


I hope you can figure out what it is,
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Sounds like yours is a lot more serious than mine. Good luck though...

Also, last night I removed my PCV and cleaned it. It was dirty but was still functional. However, I did notice that when idling, there is a lot of blow-by in the motor. I was able to determine this by removing the oil dipstick and feeling around the hole. There was a fair amount of air coming from it, but when I slightly revved the motor, the air was no longer escaping.

I did check my compression before doing a valve adjustment, and if I recall correctly was 234\233\220\235. One cylinder was a bit lower than the others, but I didn't think this would be of much concern. I didn't check the compression again after the VA, though. Should I be worried about the one cylinder that's a bit low?

S2kPowa

My is 180 on all cylinders with crappy harbor freigt gauge
Its normal for the air to comeout from that hole .
Thats why you have hose run back to intake so that you cant smell fumes from there

njmatt

Yes I'm aware. It just seems like more air is escaping than normal. Probably going to try to pick up a coilpack today or tomorrow so I can eliminate that.

njmatt

Ok so this is very weird.

I realized I had an extra coil pack in the garage from my AP1 I owned a few years ago. So I swapped that one into cylinder #1 and fired it up. My shaking idle disappeared immediately. I hopped in and took it for a 15 minute spirited drive. The car was running beautifully again. Plenty of low end power, no bogging, and the shaking had disappeared.

I took it back home, shut it off. 20 minutes later, I started it up and almost immediately noticed the idle was a bit rough again. I took it for another drive and started to notice the bogging, shaking and lack of power again.

S2Krazy89

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/107...s/page__st__25

Has it been raining or whatever where you live? Might as well make everything in one thread because other people are having this issue.

njmatt

It has been raining but I don't see what that would have to do with it? It's been having this problem for a few weeks now...

Slowcrash_101

You might be getting oil in your spark plug tube, you should change the seals on your spark plug tubes, that might cure your problem, change out the VC gasket while you're at it. Check your spark plugs.

njmatt

Hmm didn't think of that. Might explain why the new coil worked for a bit and then it crapped out again. If this is the case, I would find oil inside the tube and on the coilpack, correct?

Slowcrash_101

Yes, and you'll have to remove the spark plugs if any oil has pooled in the tubes.

njmatt

I had plenty of spare time this weekend so I spent some time trying to track down this issue...

I checked my spark plug tubes for pooled up oil. They seemed to be clean so I don't believe the issue is related to this.

I replaced my spark plugs with brand new NGK platinum. This didn't fix the shaking or idling issue but the car seems to run a bit better.

I replaced the idler pulley bearing. The old one was loud and the bearing was broken. This quieted down my idle, but it didn't fix the shaking.

I also bought one more coil pack. I swapped this into each cylinder and took it for a test drive each time. This didn't fix the issue either...

So as of now I have done the following.

1. MAP sensor whack and clean
2. Cleaned IACV
3. Reset ECU and reprogrammed idle
4. Performed a valve adjustment. Most were in spec, a few were just slightly too tight.
5. compression is 234\233\220\235 and with another gauge, 210\211\208\213 (This is on a gauge that tends to read about 20psi low)
6. Two new coil packs.
7. 4 brand new spark plugs
8. New idler pulley and serpentine belt. These were very worn and needed replacing anyways.

After all of this the car still shakes at 3000-4000rpm which is especially noticeable when under 30-80% load and seems to get worse as load increases. It begins to fade away as the revs get higher and mostly disappears during vtec.

Also, my idle continues to feel rough. When cold starting the motor, it idles fine. After about 5 minutes, the idle drops from 1000rpm to 800-900rpm and it begins to pulsate. This is not very consistent pulsating. It happens about every 1-3 seconds and can be felt throughout the car.