LOST MY VTEC!
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Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Northern UTAH
This is my 2nd post. My last post i should have addressed the heating situation, but failed to mention. I'm sorry-
I HAVE replaced my MAP sensor, but about 2 years. I could imageine that It could possibly have malfunctioned since then though. I ALWAYS let my car warm up before ANY VTEV heaven.
Does anyone think that it could be a THERMOSTAT problem? I have never replaced this. I DID however, have my radiator cap give out and leak some fluid on my radiator a few weeks ago. I have since changed my cap... but have noticed........
-When i start the car and leave it at idle in the mornings to warm up, the heater STILL isn't warm like it used to be (the last 3 years). Also, the heater ONLY works fine when I am under throttle. when i stop, say at a red light, the heater will then blow luke warm, until the light turns green and i go again. Does anyone think that this could be a a faulty thermostat for the LOSS OF VTEC and/or heating problem???
I HAVE replaced my MAP sensor, but about 2 years. I could imageine that It could possibly have malfunctioned since then though. I ALWAYS let my car warm up before ANY VTEV heaven.
Does anyone think that it could be a THERMOSTAT problem? I have never replaced this. I DID however, have my radiator cap give out and leak some fluid on my radiator a few weeks ago. I have since changed my cap... but have noticed........
-When i start the car and leave it at idle in the mornings to warm up, the heater STILL isn't warm like it used to be (the last 3 years). Also, the heater ONLY works fine when I am under throttle. when i stop, say at a red light, the heater will then blow luke warm, until the light turns green and i go again. Does anyone think that this could be a a faulty thermostat for the LOSS OF VTEC and/or heating problem???
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If your thermostat was not working your S would be over heating.
On the other hand it could be stuck open but that is not very likley.
When you replaced your rad cap did you properly bleed the coolant, note that will not effect VTEC but could possible cause over heating problems.
As to my understanding the MAP whack only helps the idle stumble and the missfires but could possible help.....maybe but that should not effect VTEC.
Is your cluster throwing a CEL?
On your temp gauge is it reaching proper temperture? 2-3 bars I think on an AP1
On the other hand it could be stuck open but that is not very likley.
When you replaced your rad cap did you properly bleed the coolant, note that will not effect VTEC but could possible cause over heating problems.
As to my understanding the MAP whack only helps the idle stumble and the missfires but could possible help.....maybe but that should not effect VTEC.
Is your cluster throwing a CEL?
On your temp gauge is it reaching proper temperture? 2-3 bars I think on an AP1
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Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 93
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If your thermostat was not working your S would be over heating.
On the other hand it could be stuck open but that is not very likley.
When you replaced your rad cap did you properly bleed the coolant, note that will not effect VTEC but could possible cause over heating problems.
As to my understanding the MAP whack only helps the idle stumble and the missfires but could possible help.....maybe but that should not effect VTEC.
Is your cluster throwing a CEL?
On your temp gauge is it reaching proper temperture? 2-3 bars I think on an AP1. Correct me if I am wrong I am still in the learning phase to.
Not to be rude, but try to keep this under one forum.
Sorry, I am correcting you before the others do. Thanks
-Greg
On the other hand it could be stuck open but that is not very likley.
When you replaced your rad cap did you properly bleed the coolant, note that will not effect VTEC but could possible cause over heating problems.
As to my understanding the MAP whack only helps the idle stumble and the missfires but could possible help.....maybe but that should not effect VTEC.
Is your cluster throwing a CEL?
On your temp gauge is it reaching proper temperture? 2-3 bars I think on an AP1. Correct me if I am wrong I am still in the learning phase to.
Not to be rude, but try to keep this under one forum.
Sorry, I am correcting you before the others do. Thanks
-Greg
Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 485
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From: Northern UTAH
No CEL's... and no i didn't bleed the coolant. I just tried the MAP whack, ECU reset and checked to see if my filter in my VTEC solenoid was clogged/dirty. Nothing was out of the ordinary. Yes, temperatures are at normal levels. I am VERY nervous that this could lead to a more expensive problem.
Anymore ideas?
Anymore ideas?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Northern UTAH
I just tried the MAP Whack, ECU reset and checking my VTEC solenoid for dirty/clogged filter... nothing out of the ordinary. I CANNOT figure this out and it's killing me.
What could cause VTEC engagement problems. Whatever the problem is, it's not enough to TOTALLY STOP ENGAGEMENT, but enough to disrupt it quite a bit. Could this be a fuel problem? Electrical? Maybe even internally?
What could cause VTEC engagement problems. Whatever the problem is, it's not enough to TOTALLY STOP ENGAGEMENT, but enough to disrupt it quite a bit. Could this be a fuel problem? Electrical? Maybe even internally?
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You might want to bleed the coolant lines raise the front of your car up high so it can get most of it out then try bleeding it from the heater line in the back next to the firewall at the center.
I don't think this would have something to do with your vtec though.
It might possibly be:
-Check and double check oil level (it's at the H mark)
-ECU
-Wiring to the VTEC solenoid
-Check you battery do a load test (autozone)
-check Alternator
-are you experincing any battery related problems (I.E. lights dim when radio is on or AC is on, slow crank?)
try and check if the vtec solenoid is actually getting volts to it with a voltimeter.
What mods are done to your car?
I really can't think of anything else. If the temp is ok and solenoid is not clogged....this is weird, it has to do with electrical.
Does anyone know if the valves are not adjusted correctly that it may cause this? I.E. valve lash.
you could PM these people they should know
Billman250
SlowS2K
Sideways
I don't think this would have something to do with your vtec though.
It might possibly be:
-Check and double check oil level (it's at the H mark)
-ECU
-Wiring to the VTEC solenoid
-Check you battery do a load test (autozone)
-check Alternator
-are you experincing any battery related problems (I.E. lights dim when radio is on or AC is on, slow crank?)
try and check if the vtec solenoid is actually getting volts to it with a voltimeter.
What mods are done to your car?
I really can't think of anything else. If the temp is ok and solenoid is not clogged....this is weird, it has to do with electrical.
Does anyone know if the valves are not adjusted correctly that it may cause this? I.E. valve lash.
you could PM these people they should know
Billman250
SlowS2K
Sideways