Were there any significant weather changes going on at the time this happened or shortly before?

 

I thought the low idle was an ECU issue, not a MAP issue.

 

if you have the map sensor problem (intermittent hesitation under hard acceleration), is it obvious? i don't think it's ever happend to my, and i'm pretty sensitive to those sorts of things. but i hear about it a lot so i thought i'd ask those who have.

but i have had the idle problem, mostly in traffic. doesn't matter if it's hot or cold out, if i sit still or move < 15 mph for awhile, the car will buck when i hit the gas. only cure is to push the clutch, let it rev, then it's ok. fyi, the engine compartment is bone stock.

 

This is not a problem as such. A few different kinds of cars will also do this. Your solution is the way to avoid it and hence, this becomes a matter of driver technique.
Read the following thread to see various opinions on the subject.

http://forums.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=57405

 

Do you guys know where I can find substantial information on this MAP sensor thing to prove to my dealership that this is warranty work.

 

Read the first post in this thread and take the TSB number to your dealer and tell them to look it up.

 

xviper, any ideas? This has not fixed my problem. It is sporadic, and seems to be triggered by humidity (Houston, can you believe it .

Could it be a grounding problem? Valves? I am really stumpped. I just hate going to the dealership because they usually don't know or break something else.

 

Yours is a very perplexing problem. Did you ever reset the ECU at the time the TSB was done? Resolving this may take some effort. I can only suggest you check the condition and gaps on the spark plugs, the condition of the air filter, use a bottle of concentrated fuel injector cleaner (you're using high octane fuel, rigth?), listen to hear if the Idle Air Control solenoid is making weird ticking noises, check and trace all vacuum lines to make sure they are connected solidly. This includes the 2ndary air injection lines like the ones that people get mixed up when they install a CAI and those little rubber lines going across the intake manifold (ie, PCV). What's your battery condition like?

 

If you think you have had a MAP issue, Honda might perform this TBS for you. I say might, because TechServBulls are not a recall and each dealer is different. Proof (a dealer rep driving your car HARD) may be needed to get this TBS done. If the dealer feels your engine hesitating at high rpm they may choose to perform this TBS under warranty or as a good will gesture. They may not. They might have just busted up your car and refuse to fix it claiming owner abuse.

If you don't want to go through all the trouble, just buy one or a couple of the Tie Wrap: P/N 32125-PCX-003, H/C 7868607s for $6.47, slide it into position, zip it and forget it. Or use one of the other backyard, ghetto methods posted.

Why are they replacing the MAP sensor with this TBS if vibration is causing the contacts to loose material and conductivity, thus changing resistance? Would not the connector contacts wear away the same material? Or are the MAP contacts the sacrificial contacts? I would think an improved connector would be the true fix. Although if a $6.47 piece of plastic will do the trick, I'll spend it, for piece of mind.

May I also suggest that prior to installing the tie wrap, remove the connector, clean (with an electrical contact cleaner) and inspect the condition of the connector and MAP contacts?

I'm not touching the old Bucking issue with a ten foot Tie-Tie.

 

If you find the cause to your problem, please let me know. It seems like my s is having the same problem.