Hopefully it'll be as easy as cutting the exhaust valves and lapping them. Probably cost you ~$50 at a decent machine shop. Absolute worst case scenario, you'll need two new guides, new seats or re-cut seats, 2 new valves, and stem seals. Obviously a new head gasket. I'd pull the exhaust manifold first, you can get a good look at the valves there. Put some compressed air in and you'll be able to feel which valve is leaking, also the burned valve(s) will be obvious, the stems will be charred grey. If you need any tips pulling the head feel free to ask. To remove the crank pulley bolt, you'll need a 3/4 breaker bar, hit the parking break, put the transmission in 6th and pull. Head bolts can usually be re-used once without problems.

*oh and get a bunch of big zip lock bags put all the different bolts in different bags and label them. Take pictures so you can be sure you know what goes where. Sucks having to reset your cam cap bolts when your valve cover doesn't fit. And take your time to make sure all the timing marks line up perfectly.

 

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/uploads/g...367_169663.jpg

Ugh! Sorry about that. JOC... is this an AP2 engine? How long do you think it was, before its first valve adjustment?


Thanks!

 

Thanks for your input guys, like you I am very interested to find out just what the problem is! No windhund, this is an AP1, original owner/motor, first adjustment ~15k miles. Slowcrash - besides a bunch of ziplock bags for valvetrain parts, I use a cardboard box to stick the various bolts and such in labeled and mapped out holes, so stuff doesn't get mixed up. I also have a Honda crankshaft pulley wrench to get that bolt out, but why would I need to remove that?

 

Also can use a piece of cardboard with holes for the shaft of bolts or other accessories. Easy to label for specific cylinders or placement. Kinda like link.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/8...e/img_0891.jpg

LOTS of photos during disassembly may save you a ton of grief later.

Good luck!

 

Taking the timing cover off makes it a little easier, but not absolutely necessary(it is if you drop something), same with the intake manifold, but that's a ripe pain in the ass. Some would rather just struggle a bit with the upper rad hose than mess with the IM. Well in my case I dropped the pan too because I had the dreaded 'make you think it's a rear main seal leak but it's really just the pan', leak.

 

Make sure to check the last exhaust valve (8th in cylinder 4)

When you pull the head off you will see the 1 and the last one needs lapping.
Seems like it's a design flaw in a f22 engines

 

He's got an F20.

Next time you do the valve clearances do it towards the loose end of the specs, this will ensure you won't have the same problem. Slightly loose won't hurt nothing, anything tight will.

 

I was going over the manual for parts I need to order, and wondered what TCT o-ring's I might need which led me to re-read some correspondence I had with Billman (I run his TCT). Back in 2014 when I purchased the TCT I mentioned to Billman that my #1 exhaust clearances were rather tight. I figure I have been gradually backing off the #1 ex. for a couple of adjustments now, and with this misfire fiasco I've backed them off even more. Again, I wonder why they are so far off when I adjusted all of the clearances to the same feel? Obviously, over time this has caused my problem with #1, but why haven't the others followed suit and started to fail also?

 

Perhaps you had/have a slightly stripped jam nut which doesn't hold the valve adjustment in place?

 

I have a 2005 S2000 with about 65K miles. I am getting misfire codes for cylinder 1 (most often), but also sometimes for cylinders 2 and 4. I also get code P0300 (random/multiple cylinder misfire). The interesting thing is that the misfire codes and check engine appear after high-g cornering, acceleration and braking during autocross and also when I start the car at a steep driveway at my friends' place. This should give us some clue... Based on these symptoms, I'd think a fuel problem instead of a spark problem is the more likely cause of the misfire. Bad fuel pump perhaps? What do you guys think? BTW, I put fuel injector cleaner and HEET in the last gas tank, but last night I reversed on the steep driveway and the misfire code happened again.