What year and kms is your s2000? I had this problem to and had exactly the same assumptions. Bad gas from always keeping it near empty but found out it was my 2nd coilpack. And by the time I found that out I had already bought 4 new spark plugs ($100+ from my place) and almost sent my fuel injectors for ultrasonic injector cleaning.

 

Helms manual doesn't mention anything about removing the vtec solenoid for head removal. Vtec solenoid is just absent in all of the rest of the head removal/inspection diagrams. Am I missing something? I would think it would have to come off for any head work or cleaning.

 

Take it off, it's only a few bolts and it comes right off. Do you have a new gasket for it? Makes it easier to take out the TCT as well which I'm sure you've done. You may want to replace the cam wheel o-ring oil seal thing too. They don't start leaking until 80-100k miles but it never hurts to do preventative maintenance.

 

So I only need #14 in the above diagram? How about the fuel rail? Does it have to come off? In the manual it just disappears from the diagrams right when you're on the last step of removing the intake. I might as well get the injectors cleaned if I take them out? I will need to check the valve stems through the ex. ports as you mentioned above. I'm getting there but what a rats nest, under the intake seems.

 

You can leave the intake manifold on, it's just a lot easier with it off. Off with the fuel rail, you may need new washers for the fuel pulsation damper/feed line.

 

Do you suggest replacing the head bolts with new ones?

Thanks!

 

If it's the first time you can probably re-use them, I did, I measured them with a mic where the shop manual says to check and they were well within spec. Probably wouldn't work a 3rd or 4th time, though I've never had to disassemble a head that many times. Those are some pretty beefy bolts, and they're torqued to a good ~260ft lbs by the second 90 degree turn. Maybe someone with more experience will chime in. You can use new bolts, for sure, it takes more money and work, and 70% of the time probably not necessary.

 

Whoa!?! The book says 22lb-ft for head bolts. I finally have the damn intake manifold off. I took pictures (through ex. ports), the first is of #1 and the second is #4. I'm guessing the shiny oily looking area on #4 upper visible valve stems is indication of actuation, whereas #1 is quite dry and crusty. Any chance of this being just stem seals? I think I've narrowed down a guy for the head inspection/work.

 

This is the first step of tightening the head bolts. You tighten all bolts in cross-pattern sequence to 22 ft-lb (inner bolts to outer bolts). THEN, you tighten each, in same sequence 90-degrees more. Then, another 90-degrees. A third time, if you are using new head bolts.

You definitely have signs of burnt exhaust valves, from that photo.

 

Bad stem seals won't hurt compression, they will lead to increased oil consumption. Yeah the crusty stuff in cylinder 1 is not a great sign, definitely points to something burning mostly oil. Intake valves should be fine, like I stated earlier, the intake valves get cooled by the air fuel mixture, so they're not as subject to as much heat as the exhaust valves. You'll definitely need two new valve stem seals. Next step would be to inspect the valve face and seats, and measure the play on the valve guides. The valves should fit a little less than snug on the guide and travel true. You should also inspect if the valve is bent, you can put it in a drill and you'll see if it's bent right away, or just roll it on a flat surface. Next inspect the valve seats and valve face for pitting. If there aren't any pits or the valve seat doesn't look damaged, or has no pits that can catch your fingernail, then your machine shop can just cut the valve or clean it up and just lap it to the valve seat. They may have to cut the seat a little bit to get the proper install height. If the seat is in good shape, but the valve is trashed you can just lap new valves onto the seats and call it a day, no machine shop needed.

A good way to test if your valves are sealing or not after the work is finished, is to pour a little water in the combustion chamber over the valves, and blow air in through the exhaust or intake port. If you see bubbles, you're leaking air.