s132nr,

Did the head work provide reliable operation for a good length of time (miles since head work)? I am heading down this path myself. Also, what mileage was your vehicle at?

Thanks,

 

Undoubtedly WAY too late on a reply but since I had used this site I figured I would chime in. 2005 with misfires on 1 and 3. Mechanic tried everything, independently from but along the same lines as the postings here. Local dealer wanted nothing to do with it (knowing their staff would not be any better than my guy). Last ditch he was going to tear the motor apart. As he began he noticed something and found that the exhaust roller rockers for 1 and 3 were oblong or warped. He replaced and the car is smoother than it's been for as long as I can remember. One of the mechanic's crew had an S2K before he began there, had the same issue but could not resolve and sold. He is pretty pissed now!

Hopefully this may help the next person. Thanks!

 

After 6 months of long cranks over time I ended up rebuilding the alternator (blinking dash lights), replacing battery, doing a tune up, had valves checked, and what finally fixed it for me was the fuel pressure regulator. I only got one misfire code for cylinder 4 though. The FPR doesn't have any sensors connected to it and there's a paint indicator to show a mechanic if it's been replaced. I almost think it's an engineered way for the dealer to get a bunch of random work done for a simple fix.

 

I have a 2005 purchased recently, less than 2 months. Ran fine all that time, went on a trip from SD to Irvine, about 79 mi. About 3/4 of the way up it started to stumble at cruising freeway speeds. When I got to the destination parking lot right off the freeway, it was missing hard, one cylinder down, check engine flashing. Parked it and did my business. After about an hour, started up and the light went off. Driving fine non-freeway speed, light came back on solid. Took it to O'Reilly to pull codes. Came back with p0300, p0301, p0304. It was driving okay. Started to head back home, made a stop at a close by market. Solid light on and off. After 1/2 hour, continued the drive home. Accelerated up the freeway ramp and light back on full stumble can't go much above 3k, limped back off the freeway. Parked over night, came back the next day with OBDIi, spark plugs and coils. Pulled codes, now p0300, p0301, p0303. Don't remember if there was a p1399. Replaced the plugs and coils infront of someone's house, and started it up. Still misfiring, pulled coil connecters and cylinder 1 made no noticable difference. Had it towed to Norm Reeves Honda. They liked the car and said they would only have a master tech work on it. The first day they did a valve adjustment. No change. The secong day they did a leak down test, 250 across all four. Friday they silent even after multiple alls on my part. Saturday the guy tells me he was off and not sure why no one called me back, and that since it was Saturday they would not work on it again until Monday. Today the guy calls to tell me even with the leak down being good, they still think it is the head. They are going to lossen the valve adjustment and try again. I ask how is it possible with good leak down that there is any issue with miss fire? He said the valve seafarers soft and they sometimes get stuck and cause misfires. I said I don't hear that happening. I have just a little over 78k miles on it at this point, any suggestions appreciated. Going to tow it back home if they keep inisisting the head is bad.

 

I'd be pulling my car out of that shop pronto

 

That's the plan at this point.

Update. I told the service rep i thought it might be the injectors when i had dropped the car off. He told me the codes didn't support that. Then he started pushing the head fix, I told him with the leak down passing how could it be. I told him I think it is
the injectors or the fuel pump. I told him didn't have much confidence in his diagnosis. He called me back after an hour and said the tech noticed the fuel injector pins were loose on three of the injectors, so he went ahead and fixed all four, but since he had loosened the valve adjustment he had to let it cool down again to put the adjustment back in spec before testing. I told him I said it was probably the injectors and he said "yah", then I told him regardless if it fixes the misfire or not I am picking it tomorrow.

Hoping the misfire is fixed but at this point, who knows. I have never serviced fuel injectors before so don't know what pin he was referring to. But I guess I will find out tomorrow. If anyone has a clue, please enlighten me.
Thanks

 

Update. The car is back running fine. It turns out it was the fuel injectors. The previous owner did not plug them in properly and the locking pins/clips where not engaged. If I had a few more moments, I would have found them myself. Anyway, all is well.

 

Had a misfire. CEL flashed then stayed on. Code was for cylinder 1 and 4 and multiple misfires. Cleared the code. Cleared the CEL. Moved coilpack 1 to 3 then 2 to 4 trying to see if it replicates to cylinder 2 and 3. So far no codes are being thrown. No CEL. But having hiccups and/or bog on low rpms. Drove it around for maybe 20 miles. Going to drive it some more and see if codes come back.

Any thoughts?

 

I bought an ap1 in late June with 162,000 miles. I have put around 1,000 miles on the car myself. I replaced the coolant reservoir because it was cracked. Around mid July I got a check engine light. When I checked the code it said I had a cylinder 1 misfire. I replaced sparkplugs (with Denso), I also noticed that there was oil in the sparkplug wells so I cleaned out the oil as best as I could and replaced the seals. I cleared the code and everything was fine for 4 days. The check engine light came back on so I looked up the stickied misfire post on s2ki and I followed it. I changed the coilpacks (Denso), I changed the fuel pressure regulator (OEM), I changed the fuel injectors (OEM). I got a valve adjustment, but my valves were fine for the most part they only had to adjust a minuscule amount. I got a compression test done in all cylinders and the results were
Cylinder 1: 120

Cylinder 2: ~180

Cylinder 3: ~180

Cylinder 4: ~180
After 2 weeks in which I replaced all the stuff mentioned before I did another compression test and now cylinder 1 was down to 100
I did a leakdown test and cylinder 1 showed 92% cylinder leakage with 90 psi
After a couple weeks I decided to insert the OBD II again to see and now I have a misfire in cylinders 1, 3, and 4.
I finally took it to a general shop my family has worked with before and the mechanic said he wanted to change the timing chain as well as the TCT I agreed and when he went to drain the oil he found metal in it. Metal flakes lit up when he illuminated them. So he did an engine flush and added an additive.
I only have filled it with premium fuel from either Costco or Quiktrip and I changed the oil myself with Castrol GTX. This is all new to me because my family has had really good luck with cars as the only bad example I can remember is an Altima with their terrible CVTs. I don’t feel a loss of power, the car does exactly what I want it to. My friend did say that he saw white smoke when I was in front of him taking off after a green light. With the top down I used to smell exhaust or gas. Now I smell a sweet smell too (I’m leaning more towards oil) I don’t know if it’s that because of the additive. I’m pretty lost at the moment because there are 4 options I could take: rebuild the engine with stronger internals or oem parts (I cannot find any kits though), buy a refurbished F20c (I don’t know how good of an idea it would be to buy a refurbished engine), or k swap.
I would like to know exactly what is wrong with it, where is the metal coming from? I’ve never overrevved or misshifted the car. If anyone has any guesses I would love to hear it. I am also looking to rebuild the engine but I don’t know any shops near me. If anyone could recommend a shop in GA I’d highly appreciate it!

 

Thanks for the help, one things I’ve noticed is the coil pack connectors on my car were very brittle and fell apart when I went to go replace the spark plugs. So I replaced all of them and I’m still getting it, once I find the issuer I’ll post what mine was