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Motor pulled and torn down......need feedback

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Old Oct 8, 2017 | 10:12 AM
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Default Motor pulled and torn down......need feedback

Several weeks ago, my car began making a loud knocking noise and then stopped running altogether. I hired a tech to pull the motor and tear it down. It turns out I spun a rod bearing in cylinder #2. Upon inspection, the rest of the motor is in great shape. Per the tech, the cylinder bores, head, pistons all look really good. We will need to replace the crank. So now I'm trying to figure the best approach to rebuild. This doesn't mean the cheapest route either, but rather being smart about it and maintaining OEM quality, integrity and power.......or better of course. Here are the options I've come up with so far. I've abandoned a used motor as there is no way to know the true health of what you are getting. Keep in mind I'm in California and I don't want to deal with any smog drama.

I found a shop that sells recon'd short block for $3,000. It has new rings, bearings, thrust washer and balanced crankshaft. The pistons and con rods are reused. It will basically be a zero mile motor once I have my head refreshed.

Second option: There's a shop back east that has a "built" short block for $4,000. It's probably more than what I'll need for occasional track days. Here's the description of their product: includes: inlinePRO sleeves, CP pistons, inlinePRO rods, ACL race bearings, Hot tank, Resurface, Bore, Hone, Gap rings, Measure Bearing clearance, Balance, Micropolish Crankshaft, Blueprint, Assembly

Third option: Have my original block honed and build it with OEM parts or possibly upgraded aftermarket. I need to find a shop that can hone with causing damage to the sleeves. I'm not looking to go force induction. I would like to gain a little performance if possible. I was looking into a BC stroker kit, but it will require a tune and I don't know if I can get that past CA smog. I believe I can have my original motor built for less than the other 2 short block options, but I'm going to be calculating a parts list and machine shop work to confirm. Anyone else who's done this please share your experience.

I'll be making decision in the next week or two and ordering parts to keep the project moving forward. I'm hoping other members here can add some insight to this endeavor. Thanks guys and gals......
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Old Oct 8, 2017 | 10:42 AM
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I wouldn't do sleeves unless you are going FI and need it for reliability. You didn't mention if this is F20 or F22? F22 crankshafts are getting hard as hell to find. I believe honda still has stock on F20 cranks. If you end up going with another block, I'd be interested in your current one if you want to sell it.
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Old Oct 8, 2017 | 10:49 AM
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How are you sure the crank is trashed? Is the spun bearing journal scratched beyond repair?

I'd get another opinion on the crank, they're rare, and getting harder to find. I'd try to save the crank and see if can just move one OEM bearing size thicker. No need to hone or bore the cylinders unless the walls are all scratched up or out of round. I would just re ring the pistons with 06+ ring pack and call it a day. Likely you won't need to rebuild the head.

I've honed one of these engines, believe me when I tell you, you or the person rebuilding really need to know what they're doing. PM me for more details.
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Old Oct 8, 2017 | 10:57 AM
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Default It's F22C

Originally Posted by Charper732
I wouldn't do sleeves unless you are going FI and need it for reliability. You didn't mention if this is F20 or F22? F22 crankshafts are getting hard as hell to find. I believe honda still has stock on F20 cranks. If you end up going with another block, I'd be interested in your current one if you want to sell it.
My car is a 2004 F22, drive by cable.....
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Old Oct 8, 2017 | 10:59 AM
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only 06+ is fly by wire..
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