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Originally posted by LewKeim It would be really interesting to return the car to stock and run the plot again....
I agree with this, what is your oil level? Maybe you have some other problem that is leading to the low numbers. At this point anything is worth a shot.
OK, regrets for the delay, finally got this into the thread.
Please note the bumps added at 3500-4500 and again at 6000-6400. This has to be the ECU but sure seems little return for the investment.
One correction to the dyno: When I asked for a printout of the best runs of all three sessions, the tech instead added the worst run of the stock session which is in green. The best stock run was 205.7 HP not the 202.7 shown.
Worse, everyone has asked about the area "under the curve". As you can see, the H/E/ECU falls under the curve from VTEC to redline.
Sounds like a lot of work and I am not sure yet what your aim is.
I have the Mugen header and exhaust and it is exactly what I what I wanted. The exhaust adds a bit (probably not at peak, but I have swapped exhausts enough to know) and is the right sound for me. The slightly fatter mid range torque curve really helps the car pull out of turns easier on the track (especially when I misjudge and lose momentum).. in fact everyone that has driven on the track comments how strong the car feels in the low and mid range. I find the car more pleasant on the street but without comparison drives that can be wishful thinking as much as anything else.
This car is certainly better at turning good lap times than staggering dyno numbers; perhaps you would be more satisfied changing your pursuit.
cdelena, no, thanks for suggesting a change in pursuit, but I'm interested in finding out what combination of modifications can maximize my specific engine's output. I've turned enough laps in my life in both cars and bikes to know that given handling, more power judiciously applied will lower lap times...on most courses.
I want to replace the Mugen manifold with the stock piece and see what effect it has on output and will work from there. There seems to be enough interest in this work to continue to post it for others to read, but if there's not I'll take down the thread.
For the question on leaded or unleaded...the Sunoco 100 octane "Race Gas" is leaded. Of course it would just be my luck to have that tank filled with 87 octane dishwater...by mistake of course. No slight of Sunoco intended, just an attempt at self-deprecating irony.
Ruh-roh shaggy....If what you say is correct (leaded gas), then you've just screwed up your O2 sensors. Leaded gas will kill modern O2 sensors by depositing lead on them. Affects their ability to accurately read mixture. If this is indeed the case, replace your O2 sensors (at least the primary) and retest.
UL
[QUOTE]Originally posted by 9906
[B]
For the question on leaded or unleaded...the Sunoco 100 octane "Race Gas" is leaded.
ultimate lurker is somewhat correct on the oxygen sensors. You can use leaded race fuel for a while w/o problems ...but eventually your oxygen sensor will foul out because the holes will become clogged w/ the lead from the fuel. Almost all the forced inducted guys (DSM, MKIV, etc.) run race fuel for a few months before replacing oxygen sensors.
The more important reason I was asking about the use of leaded fuel is because you still have a catalytic converter. This would explain the loss of power on the top-end as well ...your converter is pretty much clogged up from the lead in the fuel ...causing a bottleneck effect (especially in the higher RPM). You will need to install a test-pipe and retest your modifications, or possibly replace your catalytic converter from the damage of running leaded fuel.
