Thanks to many of you I have been able to collect enough research to base my build upon.

- AP1 CHASSY W/ '00 ECU RAN AT 9K
- AP1 FULLY BUILT HEAD (AFTERMARKET RETAINERS-SPRINGS-VALVES WITH P/P) AND OEM HG
- AP1 BLOCK W/ F22 CRANK - 2.2 CROWER RODS/BOLTS - AP1 PISTONS/OEM RINGS (FOR 11.8:1 COMPRESSION) BALANCED/HONED/ASSEMBLED

Looking to reach 220 whp with dc headers and invidia exhaust

trying to find some stronger than oem wrist pins... anyone know where?

Project begins the 6th delivery on the 21st

 

any last minute details i am leaving out? please share! pics coming soon.

- oem main and rod bearings will be used

- coming August vortech s/c with 4.0 pulley - spearco intercooler - arp headstuds - 3mm headgasket - @10psi

 

sounds like a sweet build u got going on but why the DC header? might as well keep the factory header.

 

just headers that came with the car... will most likely upgrade them along with a test pipe... im not trying to spend much money on mods that wont make a significant difference at this point... i will be looking to hit 450whp with a good turbo/supercharger before the summer is over... probably looking at 6-8k more to reach that kind of power. right now its all about building the block to withstand 500+whp.

anyone know of good solid piston wrist pins?

 

Forget the DC header. You will not gain anything. Infact, you may lose some

 

well if your going forced induction than buying a diff header is pointless.

 

like i said it came with the car.... there is no point in spending money on something i must remove later on. the car with this setup should be just fine till the cash rolls around. i just realized that there is no point in getting stronger wrist pins since new pistons will be needed anyways to lower the compression... duh

 

It's July and you're doing a high compression build.

And then in August you intend to go FI with lower compression (you mentioned both a 3mm headgasket and different pistons).

If you lower compression via the head gasket you only have to pull the head off. If you intend to do it with pistons you need to at least remove the head and disconnect the conrods but you probably should hone the cylinders to properly bed the rings. And depending what pistons you use you may need to sleeve the block.

Are you seriously planning to do a rebuild for a couple of weeks NA then another for FI? I don't think you have thought this through (regardless of numerous posts).

 

Oh, and stock pistons and wrist pins are fine for 500hp.

 

My suggestion is rebuild now with the ARP head studs and 3mm head gasket. The money you save on re-rebuilding will easily pay for a Vortech SC.