Need advice on starting an S that has been sitting in the garage for 2 years
Hello guys,
I have a 2009 S2000 that has been setting in the garage for around 2 years. The S has roughly 4000 miles on it and a battery tender has been connecting to the car the whole time. The fuel was almost empty (the fuel empty light was on when I last drove it).
I need to start and drive the S to a friend's shop (30 miles away) for a full tune-up. What is the best way of starting and driving a car that has been sitting for so long car prior to the tune-up. Do I need to siphon the remaining gas out or just add new fuel + fuel additive/cleaner? Do i need an oil change prior to starting?
Also, do you guys recommend the followings?
Anything else I am missing that you recommend?
Thanks in advance!
I have a 2009 S2000 that has been setting in the garage for around 2 years. The S has roughly 4000 miles on it and a battery tender has been connecting to the car the whole time. The fuel was almost empty (the fuel empty light was on when I last drove it).
I need to start and drive the S to a friend's shop (30 miles away) for a full tune-up. What is the best way of starting and driving a car that has been sitting for so long car prior to the tune-up. Do I need to siphon the remaining gas out or just add new fuel + fuel additive/cleaner? Do i need an oil change prior to starting?
Also, do you guys recommend the followings?
- Brake fluid change?
- Transmission oil change?
- Differential oil change?
- Siphon out old gas and replace fuel filter?
- replace battery?
Anything else I am missing that you recommend?
Thanks in advance!
If the oil was fresh when the car was put into storage, you'll be ok. I'd pull the plugs, put a little oil into the cylinders. Lubricate the oil rings and cylinder walls.
Then, crank the starter, with plugs out, for like 15 seconds to get oil into the top of the engine and into small passageways --- as best as possible --- via the oil pump. Do this before starting the engine. Check for big-time leaks, during this process.
Other lubes (tranny and diff) really only need to be changed, if they have a lot of miles on them. Check levels if obvious puddle on the floor.
Did the gas have stabilizing additives? You'd prolly be ok. If not and the gas smells kinda funky, prolly best to replace with fresh stuff.
Check the air filter (or lack of). Maybe good to replace it, if moisture got into it during the rest period.
Battery maybe fine, if trickle charged the whole time. You'll see, once you start driving the car around. If it holds a charge.
Good luck! A return of another S2000 to the battle!
Then, crank the starter, with plugs out, for like 15 seconds to get oil into the top of the engine and into small passageways --- as best as possible --- via the oil pump. Do this before starting the engine. Check for big-time leaks, during this process.
Other lubes (tranny and diff) really only need to be changed, if they have a lot of miles on them. Check levels if obvious puddle on the floor.
Did the gas have stabilizing additives? You'd prolly be ok. If not and the gas smells kinda funky, prolly best to replace with fresh stuff.
Check the air filter (or lack of). Maybe good to replace it, if moisture got into it during the rest period.
Battery maybe fine, if trickle charged the whole time. You'll see, once you start driving the car around. If it holds a charge.
Good luck! A return of another S2000 to the battle!
I agree with the above. If it were me, I'd siphon as much old gas out as i could, then of course add as much new gas as you are able to (I'd say 5 gal minimum, to dilute whatever you weren't able to siphon). A tablespoon of oil into each spark plug hole, and rotate the engine by hand a few times first to make sure the walls are well lubricated. Definitely change the engine oil, but the trans & diff are fine, especially if they will be changed at the shop anyway.
I believe you can remove the hazard and ecm fuses to keep the injectors from firing, and crank it for about 15 seconds to bring the fuel pressure up before allowing it to start.
There's no fuel filter to replace, and if the battery is able to start the car, I see no reason to replace it immediately. Let it cycle a few times then make that decision.
Brake fluid should be flushed every 3-4 years if you're on DOT 3 (OEM is DOT 3). But there is no urgent need to do this in advance of a causal 30 mile drive.
I believe you can remove the hazard and ecm fuses to keep the injectors from firing, and crank it for about 15 seconds to bring the fuel pressure up before allowing it to start.
There's no fuel filter to replace, and if the battery is able to start the car, I see no reason to replace it immediately. Let it cycle a few times then make that decision.
Brake fluid should be flushed every 3-4 years if you're on DOT 3 (OEM is DOT 3). But there is no urgent need to do this in advance of a causal 30 mile drive.
You can bring oil pressure up, however, I wouldn't crank for 15 seconds straight. 3x 5 seconds will help keep the starter alive.
Couple of things to think about.
I would remove as much gas as you can and then fill with fresh
For reasons below, you may want to change oil first. Why not?
Depending on if emergency brake was set for years, you may have uneven rotors from oxidation.
http://www.mossmotors.com/SiteGraphi...f_storage.html
http://www.brighthubengineering.com/...ic-motor-oils/
I would remove as much gas as you can and then fill with fresh
For reasons below, you may want to change oil first. Why not?
Depending on if emergency brake was set for years, you may have uneven rotors from oxidation.
http://www.mossmotors.com/SiteGraphi...f_storage.html
http://www.brighthubengineering.com/...ic-motor-oils/
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I'm a little less cautious but I would simply check the oil, get fresh gas, turn the engine over by hand as mentioned above a few times then just start the car. It'll most likely trip a few check engine lights, just make sure it's not misfiring and you'll be OK mechanically for 30 miles. If you stored your car sitting on the tires for 2 years, you'll need to get the tire up to proper pressure and temperature so that it'll reform back into a circle.
Originally Posted by Habitforming' timestamp='1435630543' post='23665023
I believe you can remove the hazard and ecm fuses to keep the injectors from firing, and crank it for about 15 seconds to bring the fuel pressure up before allowing it to start.
You can bring oil pressure up, however, I wouldn't crank for 15 seconds straight. 3x 5 seconds will help keep the starter alive.
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