onions2k

Hi all,

After sifting through hundreds of posts etc, i still haven't managed to find some fixes to some of the problems i have with my recently purchased s2000. It's an Australian-Delievered model, i think same as european releases..

Basically, I have tried to fix a few things and have succeeded in some, and failed in some, I thought it was the right time to ask for technical advice from the tech-heads at s2ki and have it documented once and for all..

Rinigng noise from 2000-3200rpm on acceleration

- When I accelerate probably at 50%+ throttle, I will hear a quick ring for the duration of 1200rpm-ish at the front right wheel. Suspected loose manifold shield bolt, but nope they're all tight, and everything else seems to be tight enough.
- Suspecting brakes for some reason.. Wear indicator?

Vibration on heavy throttle over 50km - FIXED

Installed drive shaft spacers intially, instantly fixed the problem. Worn inner CV joints. Replaced rear-left axle (completely) as it had massive play anyway. Saw obvious signs of wear, heaps of pitting and a massive dent on one of the walls.. It's as smooth as can be now.

Power steering pulling problem. Pulls to the right constantly

- When jacked up, engine on, the steering pulls 100% to the right on its own.
- EPS light doesnt stay on, but have encountered DTC's: 22,23,33.
- Had dealer reset the EPS ECU and re-calibrate torque sensor position, problem still persists same deal, either honda didnt do it properly, or they just blamed it on alignment/bent stabilizer link?
- Had alignment done and everything seems to be acceptable standard, nothing that should affect the pulling to one side. Friend mechanic did it infront of me, so I trust him.

Will try:
1. Replace EPS ECU Module.
2. Replace Torque Sensor.
3. Replace Steering gearbox.
4. Repalce the entire steering unit. ($___$)

Anyone suggest anything to fix it? In Aus-Delivered models, we don't have OBDII port, we only have the 3P DLC connector, can't do a DTC clear for the ECU for the EPS without the PGM tester.

Rear camber.

- Rear left wheel has -3.00 camber, noticed that the adjustment notches was modified (a stopper bracket peice was welded on and filed. Maybe previous owner did a ghetto camber adjustment?)
- Rear right wheel has been matched to as close as it can, so it aestecially looks right (-2.65) mate said it was the max he can do. This side's adjustment notches looks factory (no dodgey welds/filing).

Anyone know if this will be an on-going problem to the drive? I'm running the stock 16" wheels and I know that the tyre will wear un-evenly, but is there a method for me to return to factory specs some how? Is that bracket thing replaceable?

Noisy gearbox. Whining and Crunching - FIXED

- It was a crappy drive, rough shifts, rough clutch ins, made alot of audible noises.
- Inspected Clutch Master for leaks, yep leaking, topped up fluid and it made a big difference immediately, smoother shifts and less in-cabin noise. Will replace Master Cylinder over the weekend and bleed the clutch filling new DOT4 fluid.
- Took of the fork pin, had a metal nipple on it, filed it smooth re-greased pin/fork/links/shifter. Alot easier to shift, less notchy and definately had a smoother pedal feel.

Definately a better drive, but I dont' trust the previous owner and will change all fluids for the transmission including diff oil with OEM stuff.

Air noise on the freeway - FIXED

- My strikers (latches for the soft top) was fairly loose. Removed the trims and found that the screws used were ghetto-spec, so i replaced them all to the same size screws and made rubber-washers and specc'd up the left side (air noise was very noticedable from here) and allowed the catchers to have a tighter lock.

Relieved alot of the air noise, the rest are probably from the ends where it has previously been repaired, but I can live with this.

Tucked in Left headlight - FIXED

- Unbolted the front bar and found that the headlight bracket itself was slightly bent and missing bolts. Replaced all, and realigned to suit. Light no longer tucks in under the guard and has a more flush finish (like how it should be in the first place...)

Bonnet/Hood alignment

- Bonnet sits slightly higher, creating a small visible gap on the front left side. Tried to adjust the catcher and the bracket's bolts, still have yet to find the right solution. If i were to push it down slightly at the front on top of the latch area, it will sit hella-flush, just seems that the latch isn't low enough (lowest adjustment already).

Any fixes?

I will add more and document all fixes until I get this thing the way I want it, like new.. Phat chance, but I'll give it a crack. Any help/advice would be awesome, and I hope this documentation would help alot of newbies out there like myself without having to sell off an arm or a leg.

Sorry for the essay, but I'm sure this will help someone out there someday...

Peace.

SUPERAnimal

As far as the steering issue goes, does the vehicle pull to the right when driving?
Also you need to pay a good dealership to diagnose this problem (usually $100)
because if they get it wrong and can't figure it out then its on them to figure it out.
If they try to fix it and it does the exact same thing as before then just take it back and tell them to do it right. You should only pay for diag once.
However if the vehicle drives completely normal in all respects and the only time this
problem is noticed is when the front tires are in the air then i would say just deal with it because you may end of spending alot of money to fix a pretty minor complaint.

onions2k

Wheel alignment definately helped the steering quite alot.. The front was pretty knackered in terms of alignment.. It slightly still pulls to the right, but I no longer always have to resist the wheel from steering right at low speeds..

However, the jacked-up steering to the right thing still remains. I really think it's the EPS's ECU and/or torque sensor being faulty. I will try to disable the EPS and see whether TRUE alignment is straight.

Peace.

Bunta1987

For the hood alignment, have you checked the hood where the part is that hooks into the latch? maybe it's a cheap, out of spec replacement or the hood might be deformed at that point. Check to see if the hood framing is symmetrical or if there has been any deformation there as well.

Saki GT

For the rpm-induced ring, try holding the shift knob during acceleration, and see if that stops it. Does the car have a factory or aftermarket shift knob? If aftermarket, the knob might be ringing against the shifter, especially if its countersunk. Try some black electrical tape wrapped around the shifter.

MM3Kwolik

Guys.... this thread is from 2010