RACER

I have moved my throttle pedal closer to the brake pedal so I can brake, blip, and downshift simultaneously. I did this by bending the throttle assembly. The problem is, when I press down on the brake pedal, it is below the throttle pedal. I need to bend the throttle pedal down. The only way to do this, is to remove the throttle pedal assembly. I removed the two nuts that hold the assembly in place, but the throttle and cruise control cable housings are attached to the throttle assembly.

My question is, How in Gods name do you remove the two cable housings from the throttle assembly? These cable housings are the only thing in the way of removing the throttle assembly. There is not a whole lot of room to work on the throttle assembly which makes it even harder not knowing how to remove the bloody thing.

I would assume that I need to know the throttle and cruise control cable removal and installation procedure. Any help would be much obliged.

xviper

The throttle cable and the actuator (cruise) cable has a kind of "button" on the end that the pedal pulls on. You must hold the pedal at its uppermost position and grab the button and pull the cable out. Then the cable itself will slide out the narrow gate to the side.
BTW, did you consider that once you lower the throttle pedal, you will no longer be able to get WOT? (ie. FULL throttle opening.)

RACER

I am talking about the cable housing that is fixed to the throttle pedal assembly. You cannot remove the cables (or throttle assembly) unless you remove the cable housing from the throttle assembly.

The throttle will still be wide open after I lower the pedal (if I ever figure out how to remove the assembly). If you open the hood, you can see the throttle open as you press on the throttle pedal.

I currently get WOT before my pedal even reaches the floor. Also there is quite a bit of slack in the cable itself, that can be easily adjusted at the throttle body.

If nobody can help me here, I'll have to spring for the Helm manual. I need the throttle cable (and housing) removal and installation procedure.

RACER

In case I was not clear above, both cable housings are attached to the throttle assembly, therefore not allowing me to remove the throttle assembly.

xviper

I described what it says in the Helm manual. You are to pull the cables (ie. pull on the throttle) an inch or two forward of the place where they are attached. Then, you should see a slot in the housing. The cable then can slide out sideways once the button is off the pedal plate.

RACER

The cable housing, not the cable itself. I can get the cable out no problem. It's the cable housing that is attached to the throttle assembly that I can not remove, therefore not allowing me to remove the throttle pedal assembly.

xviper

OK, now that I'm more clear on what you're talking about, the Helm shows that the whole pedal assembly can be removed by undoing two nuts that hold the assembly against the firewall. Once you get the assembly removed, you can see if it's possibly to remove the cable housing from the pedal assembly. I have a feeling these two are welded together.

RACER

Update: The cable housing does separate from the pedal assembly, it is not welded. There are two square openings, one on each side of the housing. If you rotate the housing 180', it will slip through the pedal assembly. I just haven't figured out how to rotate the housing.

Anyway, I started this project two days ago, and since then, have adapted to the pedal setup to fit my driving style. I moved the throttle pedal to the left a little by bending the throttle pedal assembly. At first, I just could not get the pedal in the right position. I tried different styles of blipping while braking simultaneously. Nothing seemed to work as I was very, very uncomfortable.

After adjusting the cable tension and repositioning the pedal, I drove about 30 or 40 miles. Thinking I was not going to be successful, I tried to blip during braking, and I did a perfect blip during braking.

After 4,000 miles, my brakes need to be flushed and bleed as the pedal has gone down to some degree. Doing this will raise the brake pedal up a little higher and therefore the brake and throttle should be exactly where I want them to be.

I removed the pads on left front caliper and they measured at 5 mm. I measured a brand new factory pad and it measured at 10 mm. The pads should be tossed at 3 mm, so after 4,000 miles, I have used more than half of the pads life.

For a track like Sears Point, I will need a full racing brake pad (Porterfield r4). I will be purchasing some race pads in the future, and I am more than comfortable with braking, blipping and downshifting simultaneously. Once you have the blip down (during braking) you should be able to do it at any speed, downshifting to any gear very comfortably and smoothly.