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Okay, fair enough. That was great that he checked the trust washer orientation. Wishing I had...
He is hopefully aware of another possible issue related to potential bad storage condition of these short blocks resulting in corroded bearings before engine was started.
I could find the post if needed. Anyway, I'm not trying to be negative or imply I know the short block is going to self destruct. I just know mine did and I'm confident it wasn't due to the performance pressure plate or improper installation.
On a more positive note, I finally finished the install of my eBay purchased used 2005 F22C engine that I converted to DBW and she fired up the first time!!! Taken her for several spins and no leaks or issues (so far). . I'll put together a detailed post on my experience and lessons learned in hopes of helping others.
What would be the ideal way to store a new short block long term?
What would be the ideal way to store a new short block long term?
I believe the Honda shortblocks came in a sealed bag?
You'd want to seal it from moisture, and have a thin film of oil or anti-rust agent on everything. Lots of un-coated steel in there that you want to keep rust free.
Maybe find a large vacuum bag that you can suction out with a shop vac or something.
What would be the ideal way to store a new short block long term?
I have a vague memory of someone recommending filling the engine all the way to the top with peanut (?) oil. Obviously, you'd drain it before installing...
Regardless, you want everything inside the engine to have coating of oil somehow so nothing rusts/corrodes.
Mine also came in a bag like that, however its loose and not vacuumed.
The visible parts can easily be oiled, however, I am concerned about the bearings. As pointed out above, there has been multiple issues(especially on the euro engines) of bearings rusting and causing an engine failure. How would I go about making sure the bearings are oiled?
I have a vague memory of someone recommending filling the engine all the way to the top with peanut (?) oil. Obviously, you'd drain it before installing...
Regardless, you want everything inside the engine to have coating of oil somehow so nothing rusts/corrodes.
?? no....dont do this...
also....motor oil exists. lol why did they use peanut oil?
Originally Posted by Orjinal
Mine also came in a bag like that, however its loose and not vacuumed.
The visible parts can easily be oiled, however, I am concerned about the bearings. As pointed out above, there has been multiple issues(especially on the euro engines) of bearings rusting and causing an engine failure. How would I go about making sure the bearings are oiled?
Put oil in it, enough to fill up the pan (be careful not to get it in the coolant jackets). Don't tip the engine and remember there's oil in there years down the line.
Throw some dessicant packs in the bag and seal the bag well.
Store it in a reasonably dry place, not the ocean.
Vegetable oil is extremely volatile and prone to oxidation. Most vegetable oils sold for human consumption are rancid and if they didn't have deodorizers, you'd be able to tell, but then they wouldn't sell very well.
At least motor oil has anti-oxidant additives, and things that promote oil clinging to metal surfaces.
Installed the engine yesterday. Working on installing the transmission today.
For the break-in for this new short block. This is the only information I found on break-in procedure from the factory manual.
For initial start-up, do I run break-in oil specifically or will any conventional dino oil be good? I plan to use break-in oil until operating temp, then flush and fill with a conventional oil.
