Background:
AP1
~110k miles

Info:
Yesterday morning my EPS light was on. Had no power steering.

What I've tried:

• Unplugging the battery
• Driving it around the block
• EPS Reset procedures
• 'Paper Clip Trick'
  • Is this a Code 31 or 13?
• Checked for moisture in each of the connections
  • Main power steering plug
  • EPS controller plugs (all 3)
• Checked voltage on each plug
  • All seemed to be getting power which should rule out the fuse

What I need

• Help ID'ing that code. I can't tell if it's a 13 or a 31.
• Another question. When it says 'if the indicator stays on'. Does that include blinking? When I do the reset the light seems to just continually spit that code at me. Am I doing something wrong or is the code/problem preventing me from actually doing the reset?

[attachment=58515:Torque Sensor Neutral Position.JPG]

I'm hoping it's not a bad unit as they run between $700-$1000. If it is, some members seemed to have success with some ebay controllers. Can anyone confirm they work as intended?

Thanks,
Matt




Related Threads:

• https://www.s2ki.com/...power-steering/
• https://www.s2ki.com/...69-eps-code-32/
• https://www.s2ki.com/...076-eps-issues/ <--Codes within
• https://www.s2ki.com/...nda-pgm-tester/
• https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/884...r+sale__st__75

EPS Code - Chart

 

The code appears to be 13.

Did you check the connection and voltage at the torque sensor?

 

Yes. 2.41 volts

 

http://issuu.com/onderhoud/docs/hond...rvice_manual02

I can't really find what it should be but I did manage to find this service manual that outlines the steps a tech would take.

 

Sorry, I misspoke. You need to check the continuity (not voltage) of the TS per step 10 on 17-33 of the manual you posted.

 

Alrighty. I had to look up exactly what continuity is/was - but I think I worked it out.
[attachment=58517:EPS Tests.png]


My question is:
Which connector is the one circled in blue? The connector that plugs into the torque sensor? Or is it the torque sensor plug itself?

 

The connector you circled in blue is the cable that plugs into the TS (note the wires that run from the blue circled connector to the 14 pin connector that plugs into the EPS computer).

Step 10 shows the measurements on the TS you need to make. If you have a multi-meter, set it to the lowest resistance range (like 0-100 ohms) and check to see that both of the measurements (pin 1-2 and pin 3-2) are the same and less than about 20 ohms.

From Step 8, also check that the resistance from pin 2 (on the TS) to chassis ground is very low - like the value you get when touching the two probes together

 

Just noticed that you have "NO" circled on step 5. That is a resistance measurement similar to what I was just describing on the TS, but from pin 3 of the TS computer (not the cable) to chassis ground.

Did you really measure no continuity at that point? If so, was the EPS computer still mounted and connected except for that one cable?

 

Yes. I completed step 5 and got NO.

I connected one end of my multi-meter to a chassis and the other end into the pink wire (3). No sound.

Yes, it was still mounted with everything except for the EPS Control Unit Connector plugged up. (ignition off)

 

That measurement should not be to the cable (where you can see the pink wire) but to the EPS computer where the cable plugs in. Ooops - looking again, it does seem to be to the connector - but the other end(s) of that cable should be plugged into the TS and the steering rack motor)

(You might want to consider spending $20 and getting an inexpensive multi-meter... or if that is what you are using, use the resistance function for checking continuity. Some of these measurements need the actual resistance value, not just a continuity beep or whatever. The continuity function might show OK with 20ohms, 50ohms, or higher resistance, and you really need to know what the actual value is.)