no hot air
OK long story short, A friend's s2000 dropped a valve with 75,000 miles on the clock. He's done everything honda had told him he needed and they wouldn't do anything for him.
So I step in and offer to swap in a new motor. Everything went great. it's been driving for the past month now. BUT here's the problem: There's no heat. air blows but it's not hot.
Things I've done:
bleded the coolant 1 million times.
I have a scan tool and it's showing coolant temps were at 200F +/- 10 degrees.
I've switched water pumps
I've switch thermostats and installed a new one.
The valve next to the header is moving with a full range of motion
I checked under the dash and the mixure lever is working fine.
I'm lost. What should I check next.
This is the last thing left to complete the swap and it's driving me crazy.
So I step in and offer to swap in a new motor. Everything went great. it's been driving for the past month now. BUT here's the problem: There's no heat. air blows but it's not hot.
Things I've done:
bleded the coolant 1 million times.
I have a scan tool and it's showing coolant temps were at 200F +/- 10 degrees.
I've switched water pumps
I've switch thermostats and installed a new one.
The valve next to the header is moving with a full range of motion
I checked under the dash and the mixure lever is working fine.
I'm lost. What should I check next.
This is the last thing left to complete the swap and it's driving me crazy.
Are you sure you followed the sequence as indicate in the S2000 service manual for bleeding the system? There are TWO bleeders on this car and there is a specific sequence of events that must happen to bleed it properly. If you are sure you've done them, then I'm at a loss as to what's going on.
Some side thoughts:
Are the heater hoses getting hot (both in and out) or just one?
Does the fan work?
Are both upper and lower rad hoses getting hot or just one?
Some side thoughts:
Are the heater hoses getting hot (both in and out) or just one?
Does the fan work?
Are both upper and lower rad hoses getting hot or just one?
yep I opened both bleeders one on the intake manifold and the one on the upper heater bypass line. Filled with water, close the intake bleeder and filled some more, then close heater bypass ran engine through 3 heat cycles(fan came on 3 times) with rad. cap off.
and yes all the lines are getting hot. It just doesn't make since to me.
and yes all the lines are getting hot. It just doesn't make since to me.
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As far as I know it's flowing in the right direction. Both lines are getting hot. and no the A/C isn't on.
I'm really at a loss. Can anybody point me in a direction.
If not I'm going to have to start taking each component apart and look for something out of the ordinary. I just wish I had alittle more to go on. Since I didn't let the stealership put in the new motor they are of no help. I've studied the FSM and can't find anything that would help me.
I'm really at a loss. Can anybody point me in a direction.
If not I'm going to have to start taking each component apart and look for something out of the ordinary. I just wish I had alittle more to go on. Since I didn't let the stealership put in the new motor they are of no help. I've studied the FSM and can't find anything that would help me.
Heaters aren't especially complicated, Hot water must go in, and it comes out. Either you've got some hoses mis-routed, and H20 is not circulating correctly to the heater core, or the H20 valve is shut when you think it's open.







