FurY

To elaborate a bit more... the rattle almost sounds like a bolt moving around in a porcelain bowl or something. I'm also not sure that it is coming from the engine bay or under the car. It's hard to pinpoint since I can't replicate it from a stop... only while driving and the car is under load. Open to ideas anyone may have, I don't think it's anything that's an issue, just an annoyance.

Gotpepsi

I got this new rattle that i cant pin point. Really sounds like a heatsheild. The weird thing is that it only happens at a certain temperature. The rattle occures when the car is at 2 bars in temperature. After a minuate of driving it goes away. The rattle only makes noise at 3500-3600 RPMS for the first two minutes of driving or until it heats up... than its okay until i turn it off again.. Actually that noise comes back about 10 minutes after the car is off. Any ideas?

freetors

I have an extremely annoying creaking coming from my rear suspension when I go over uneven roads slowly. I tried spraying every pivot point with teflon spray and that didn't work. Next, I took off the lower control arms and cleaned them up, repainted them, and greased the bolts up. The creaking went away for all of about two days

Why did Honda have to use this stupid bushing design that can't be greased up at all and introduces binding?

acsvy

Hi All,

I have a 2006 model and the rattle noise is really killing me.

I am getting rattle noise from the passenger window. I know for sure it is coming from the passenger window because it only occurs when window is fully up. If window is just down by a little, the rattle noise disappear.

I have applied shin-etsu to the rubber seal, but the sound still doesn't go away. It seems like there are people with the same problem as mine in another thread (but no answer was given):

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/452...window-rattle/

Thanks in advance.

SilverS2kF22C1

If i remember correctly there is a block or something located at the top of the door that holds the bottom part of the window when it is up. It is very common for the block to fall out if a door panel is removed leading to a rattling window. It is commonly found at the bottom of the door. Probably hit up the audio section with the question too, as they probably have seen it with speaker installs and the like.

Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk 2

fernando.

The frame of my top squeaks whenever I'm going over irregular road surfaces, tried lubing all the hinges and do dice. Not sure what to do for this. If I physically grab the frame and try to move it I can make it squeak as well.

Also, I had this really annoying metal rattle over bumps, turns out the passenger side dash bolt was loose, a bit weird, but no more rattles in my car.

Bebop

Ok, this one bothered the crap out of me. I installed an Invidia N1 but got rid of the muffler and went straight pipe (sounds better, and muuuuuuuuuuuch less cabin drone)and found rattle coming from the plate covering the top access to the gas tank. It was consistent at 3500 RPM and real loud. Took some felt tape and quite a lot of patience, seeing how there are three screw holding the plate on, and you have maybe two inches of clearance and a very uncomfortable bend to get there. And now that its fixed, I am starting to hear more. Probably gonna stop looking cause I'll never get em all.

fernando.

One thing to check is that wing nut that holds the spare tire down.

Viggen

It took me two days to figure this out, I stayed most of the time looking under the car for something tickling the chassis and it was far easier than that.

I guess it is a coincidence I stiffened my coilovers before this nut became loose, as well as other minor rattles has appeared since then. Now I have a fight with the top strikers rattling...

Fortunately VTEC deadens any rattle pretty well.

cosmomiller

Rubber Seals on top/Shin Etsu/Plumbers Grease/ Keeping the squeaks and creaks away as well as the water out.

My S is still pretty new, as 09s go, and I want to keep it that way with preventative maintenance. As far as the rubber seals go for the top, I have read quite a bit in discussions and on line about Shin Etsu grease available from Honda. (Its repackaged by Honda-not made by them) Honda recommends its application to rubber seals to maintain their function and appearance. The problem? My dealer wants $70 for a substantial size tube. Ouch! I can see other sizes are available online and from the manufacturer at lower prices.
(BTW I am an military/airline guy and have no financial interest in this stuff)

Now I have found and use Gunk brand 'Plumbers Grease' for household applications: my pool equipment, water softener, plumbing, and other uses. Great stuff. Comes in a small white plastic tub. $3. Why not this instead of Shin Etsu? Time for some research.
Although the precise chemical breakdown is not listed on either containers, you can find out alot from the websites and uses for the products. I will spare you on endless details but let me throw in this definition of 'silicone grease':

Edit: I would like to add 3M products "Car Care Silicone Paste (Dielectric grease)" to this discussion. High quality, comes in big bottle with built in brush and can be found at many auto parts stores. Inexpensive.

Silicone grease is a waterproof grease made by combining a silicone oil with a thickener. Most commonly, the silicone oil is polydimethylsiloxane and the thickener is amorphous fumed silica. Using this formulation, silicone grease is a translucent white viscous paste, with exact properties dependent on the type and proportion of the components.

Silicone grease is commonly used for lubricating and preserving rubber parts, such as O-rings. Additionally, silicone grease does not swell or soften the rubber, which can be a problem with hydrocarbon based greases. It functions well as a corrosion-inhibitor and lubricant for purposes that require a thicker lubricant, such as the operating mechanism of the M1 Garand rifle or S2000 soft top.
The most common use of it is an elastic heat transfer coupling material between semiconductor circuit elements and attached cooling metal parts. This way thermal resistance of touching surfaces is typically lowered by 50 percent. The high thermal stability is the key property that allows these greases to operate on hot, cold and wet surfaces of peltier elements.

Silicone grease is also used widely by the plumbing industry in faucets and seals, as well as dental equipment. Electrical utilities use silicone grease to lube separable elbows on lines which must endure high temperatures. Silicone greases generally have a temperature range of -40 to 400 °C.

Silicone grease is widely used as a temporary sealant and a lubricant for interconnecting ground glass joints, as is typically used in the chemical laboratory. Although silicones are normally assumed to be chemically inert, several historically significant compounds have been prepared by unintended reactions. For example, the first salt of the crown ether (OSi(CH 3 ) 2 ) n (n = 6, 7) were prepared by reactions resulting from contacting organolithium and organopotassium compounds with silicone greases.

Silicone-based lubricants are often used by consumers in applications where other common consumer lubricants, such as Vaseline, would damage certain products, such as latex rubber condoms, rubber/plastic on really cool cars like the S2000, and gaskets on drysuits.

The salient points are the presence of the silicone ingredient and NOT petroleum additives which attack rubber. (Thats why Vaseline and condoms do not go together well)
The 3M silicone paste as well as plumbers grease matches those qualities of Shin Etsu: Has temp range of -40 to 400 degrees F, Does not melt. Waterproof protective coating that prevents rust and corrosion. Rubber and synthetic, plastic, metal and ceramic materials. Certified ANSI/NSF 61. Made in USA.
Contains Polydimethylsiloxane/63148629, Dimethyl Siloxane, Hydroxyterminated/70131678, Silica, Amorphous Fumed/7631869.

Pretty much the same industrial ingredients for this class of product including Shin Etsu.

Bottom line: it seems to me the plumbers grease is really pretty much the same quality and composition at a much cheaper price.

This brings me to the final point: UV protection. Non of these greases offer UV protection. (like to have the top down?)

Some auto detailing suppliers offer products that incorporate UV protection. I will pick on one: Meguiars. (I know I could have said 303) They say they use only the silicone chemical makeup (read more $) that is not harmful to plastic (on the products that has silicone in it) unlike other companies using cheaper but harmful silicone compositions (Armorall) Meguiars makes a ultimate protectant designed for rubber with UV protection.

Where am I going? Why not use the Meguiars ultimate protectant for an initial application and follow up with the grease? That way you get the UV protection and then the benefit of the grease on top of that? I would think your rubber seals would stay in primo condition if you did that several times a year. Anyone?