Oil is going black really fast, how do I fix this?
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Originally Posted by steve695' timestamp='1350003933' post='22076652
[quote name='xviper' timestamp='1349998585' post='22076492']
The makers of "Slick 50", Duralube, STP and Super Duper Tinker Bell Octane Boost love people like you, not to mention hundreds of psychologists in your area. Have you tried Royal Purple? I hear the color purple takes off 50,000 miles from the age of the car.
The makers of "Slick 50", Duralube, STP and Super Duper Tinker Bell Octane Boost love people like you, not to mention hundreds of psychologists in your area. Have you tried Royal Purple? I hear the color purple takes off 50,000 miles from the age of the car.
Are you on these forums just to troll?
If you don't have anything useful to say then don't post.
Can't even ask a f@#kin question on here without 1 or 2 arrogant know-it-alls trying to put the less experienced down.
For what it's worth - i change my oil twice a year irrespective of mileage. I use a winter grade oil from November through till March and then a summer grade oil from March through to November - both turn black with use ( frequent short commuting does this faster) and it doesn't worry me at all, the cars performance doesn't suffer and it's not gulping oceans of the stuff between changes.
I'm still not good enough at maths to design a reactor pressure vessel but I CAN spot the right answer to a question.
[/quote]
Fair enough. Well thanks.
I was just worried is all.
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/Pedant off
5/40 in the summer and 5/30 in the winter IIRC but i couldn't tell you anything else about it - i only do about 10k a year so the oil and filter is only doing about 5k between changes. Given that most of my mileage is < 5 mile commute each way, I like to change it more often than Honda suggest.
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The more I read the specs of some of the Nulon oils the less impressed I get.
It's all dino or dino/syn blend, AT BEST.
TBN's I've seen are not very high, even the 5W-30 longlife oil only starts at 7.2
Top quality true syn oil can have a TBN as high as 12-13.
The oil the OP is using, 10W-40, is also pretty thick at 14.4 cSt @ 100C compared to the Honda OEM recommended 30 weight oil.
They are around 10 cSt @ 100C and that's the viscosity the F20 was designed around (IMO)
You're loosing power right there, that's a fact, like pumping loss and oil drag.
Also, you're loosing oil flow through the engine at higher rpm's, another fact.
That said: its pure dino oil so it will shear down (= get thinner) within the oil change interval.
Nulon does not give the HTHS, a value to show the oil's capability to deal with high temperature AND high load conditions.
My free, unbiased, honest advise: stay away from Nulon.
It may be cheap, I donno, but you're not getting very good oil.
If it's expensive, definitely run away from it.
What else is there available where you (OP) live?
@ unclefester
Oh.. btw... there is NO summer and winter oil anymore, not even in the UK.
Unless you are using oil your grandfather stashed during the 40's, next to the Jaguar E-type restoration project of your father.
It's all dino or dino/syn blend, AT BEST.
TBN's I've seen are not very high, even the 5W-30 longlife oil only starts at 7.2
Top quality true syn oil can have a TBN as high as 12-13.
The oil the OP is using, 10W-40, is also pretty thick at 14.4 cSt @ 100C compared to the Honda OEM recommended 30 weight oil.
They are around 10 cSt @ 100C and that's the viscosity the F20 was designed around (IMO)
You're loosing power right there, that's a fact, like pumping loss and oil drag.
Also, you're loosing oil flow through the engine at higher rpm's, another fact.
That said: its pure dino oil so it will shear down (= get thinner) within the oil change interval.
Nulon does not give the HTHS, a value to show the oil's capability to deal with high temperature AND high load conditions.
My free, unbiased, honest advise: stay away from Nulon.
It may be cheap, I donno, but you're not getting very good oil.
If it's expensive, definitely run away from it.
What else is there available where you (OP) live?
@ unclefester
Oh.. btw... there is NO summer and winter oil anymore, not even in the UK.
Unless you are using oil your grandfather stashed during the 40's, next to the Jaguar E-type restoration project of your father.
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From: Magnolia, TX
Steve,
Have you removed your valve cover recently? Was there any evidence of sludge or reddish brown deposits forming?
Have you ever changed the PCV valve?
Do you notice a significant oil level difference on the dipstick when you check it after a recent shutdown versus a first thing in the morning check?
Have you done a UOA since noticing the blackening of the oil?
Spitfire,
Do you know where I can find an E-Type restoration project cheap?
Jack
Have you removed your valve cover recently? Was there any evidence of sludge or reddish brown deposits forming?
Have you ever changed the PCV valve?
Do you notice a significant oil level difference on the dipstick when you check it after a recent shutdown versus a first thing in the morning check?
Have you done a UOA since noticing the blackening of the oil?
Spitfire,
Do you know where I can find an E-Type restoration project cheap?
Jack
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From: 17 ft below sea level.
I never realised my posts (in this thread and/or anywhere on s2ki) could be seen as pedantic.Should I apologise?
A little more on-topic: there is absolutely no need to use a 40 weight in summer.
Where did you get this idea?
Show us an S2000 manual where the upper ambient temp for a 30 weight oil is limited.
In your situation, with the short trips and all, a 0W-30 would be best, year round, with one change a year.
How much do I want to pay?
How long can I mentally deal with the same oil being in my engine?
I never said making an oil choice was easy.
It won't be.
Making a choice about life or death is probably easier.
Changes are you'll find a E-type restoration project somewhere in a corner of a barn, half finished, covered in dust.
I've lived/worked in the UK for a short while.
One of my colleagues at the time invited me to the family farm for dinner one evening.
Guess what was in the corner of the barn?
To be honest: my original comment was just a joke.
(Just to make things clear, accepting this can be seen as being pedantic.. oh well)
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Originally Posted by unclefester' timestamp='1350025451' post='22077134
/Pedant on
/Pedant off
/Pedant off
Should I apologise?
A little more on-topic: there is absolutely no need to use a 40 weight in summer.
Where did you get this idea?
Show us an S2000 manual where the upper ambient temp for a 30 weight oil is limited.
In your situation, with the short trips and all, a 0W-30 would be best, year round, with one change a year.
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From: Magnolia, TX
When my father died in '88 his '71 XKE was still in the garage. I loved that car and got many significant speeding tickets driving it. Unfortunately it had to be sold to pay off his bills. I did not have the money to buy it from the estate.
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From: 17 ft below sea level.
No worries!I'll give you another reason:
I've been using 0W-30's for .. at least 5 years now, year round.
My current OCI ends next week after a long 31000km (19k miles)
Agreed, maybe a little too long - even for me - I didn't pay attention to the miles accumulating.
The oil can take it though as its the good 'ole Amsoil SSO.
This one???????
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From: Magnolia, TX
Originally Posted by unclefester' timestamp='1350052807' post='22077696
I'll happily change oil weights / typres if there's a good reason to do so ( you give a good reason as you know your stuff) the pedant thing is just tongue in cheek
No worries!I'll give you another reason:
I've been using 0W-30's for .. at least 5 years now, year round.
My current OCI ends next week after a long 31000km (19k miles)
Agreed, maybe a little too long - even for me - I didn't pay attention to the miles accumulating.
The oil can take it though as its the good 'ole Amsoil SSO.
This one???????
My dad's was a canary yellow roadster with black interior. It had an ABARTH exhaust that I managed to crack a couple of times on speed bumps while cruising
drive-in restaurants. The six KONI shocks helped it handle and sit on the road well. The power steering was pretty funky though. First gear needed a new synchro...it would pop out of gear from time to time. At 135MPH, it felt like you were going about 65MPH. What a sweet car!
Thanks for the picture Spitfire!