S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Oil Pan cracked/ threads stripped?

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Old Jan 21, 2016 | 07:51 PM
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Default Oil Pan cracked/ threads stripped?

Hey guys, so a while back when I was changing my oil, I was torquing down my drain plug and my torque wrench broke (not literally) at the same time (unbeknownst) to me. Thus I really overtightened the bolt. After a while, the drain plug started to leak (didn't get a new washer either), (I know lesson learned). Thus, I went to the dealership and bought an OEM Drain plug and washer and put that in and torque correctly to spec this time. No stripped threading on the old bolt, pan looked just fine. It still leaks ever so slightly maybe a teaspoon or less every 12h. Do you think that my pan is definitely stripped? I just don't want to replace oil pan. I feel like maybe I can just get another bolt and washer and try again. Not sure... A friend says he thinks theres a crack inline with the "I" in oil.

Added Pictures: http://imgur.com/a/eulIZ First 3 are 10 min after wipe, second 3 are directly after wipe.
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Old Jan 21, 2016 | 08:00 PM
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Take a picture with the bolt out.


Torque new pan by hand.
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Old Jan 21, 2016 | 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by yamahaSHO
Take a picture with the bolt out.


Torque new pan by hand.
So you think it is in need of replacement (oil pan)?
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Old Jan 22, 2016 | 08:23 AM
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I had a similar issue, but mine leaked a lot less, I thought it was a defective crush washer. Ended up getting a Fumoto valve for my next oil change, and used drain plug thread sealant, planning to never remove the valve ever, so I didn't care if it got stuck or anything like that.
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Old Jan 22, 2016 | 08:34 AM
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Try getting some yellow Teflon tape and wrapping a couple times around the pan bolt. Yellow is oil resistant, white is not. Home Depot or Lowes should have in the plumbing department. Probably costs about $2.95. I use it on the plugs on my MGA differential to eliminate weeping.

It may simply be the crush washer, but I appreciate that you don't want to tighten too much. You can re-anneal a copper crush washer by heating red hot with a torch and then letting cool.
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Old Jan 22, 2016 | 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Slowcrash_101
I had a similar issue, but mine leaked a lot less, I thought it was a defective crush washer. Ended up getting a Fumoto valve for my next oil change, and used drain plug thread sealant, planning to never remove the valve ever, so I didn't care if it got stuck or anything like that.
I really like my Fumoto valve(s) too. Can change oil from the hood and just slide the oil pan under the car. Wound up putting them on all my cars and my daughter's TL.

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Old Jan 24, 2016 | 06:22 PM
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I purchased the fumoto valve and adaptor and some thread sealant, I'll be putting that on when it come in. I really think the pan's not crack. Will report back with results.

Update: As promised, i used permatex thread sealant on the adapter and screwed the fumoto drain valve to the adapter by hand and IT WORKED. No leaks. So if you have a stripped thread or a leak coming from the bolt. Give this a try. Cost me about $40.
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