i wouldnt whine about the best, im just interested in what works best in others opinions, and if anyone had some facts behind it, alot of the oils are identical in properties but there are some with that "magical" additive that they dont explain

 

Its all the same. Just use a leading brand and you'll be fine. Mobil, Royal Purple, Valvoline (My choice), Castrol.

 

I don't usually like to get into which is the best oil for a specific application thread. But since you asked this question, I will offer to you LE8130 Monolec Ultra-Blend HDEO:

http://www.le-inc.com/products/documents/8130_flyer.pdf

I've been using this oil in a couple of other applications and tested it through Blackstone Labs and Dyson Analysis. The wear control offered by this oil seems unrivaled IMO. Terry Dyson even admits that this oil shows incredible wear control, even under the harshest conditions from the UOA's that he's seen over the years. There is a whole thread devoted to this oil over on the DMW (Dyson Mobility Weblog). It's currently being tested by Terry on his test mule car too.

So, to answer your question, there are enhanced formulations available that OTC engine oils don't offer. LE is just one of them. So keep searching and you will find your answer someday.

Good luck!

 

The HTHS of the LE-8130 is high @ 3.7, almost as high as the 10W-30 Redline.
If only it was a 0W..... it would be The One!
The LE-8530 5W-30 has a less impressive HTHS, even with the Monolec.

For now I'm happy with the Amsoil SSO 0W-30.
An above average HTHS (the same as the 10W-30 ATM), good cold flow properties and enough UOA's posted (in other engines, that's true) on BITOG to show its a good oil.

 

Good points Spitfire. Although I don't use AMSOIL products, I am a fan of their consistently great performance, especially the ATM and SSO lubricants. PAO's are excellent for flow and HTHS. But the limited to non existent solvency of most PAO's restricts the blender's choices for additives. They are kind of stuck with a "cookie cutter" approach to additive selection offered to them by the additive companies.

LE and other "enhanced lubricant" blenders take their proprietary additive packages and find the highest quality (and affordable sometimes) grade of base oil blends that provide the best solvency and flow for the application. What base oils did LE find worked the best and use? I don't know for sure, but will soon. It will be J300 and GC tested over at DMW soon. Regardless, I think their 8130 is a winner for my applications so far.

 

Without going into a heated debate, here is something you can take to the bank. All modern big house synthetic oils are perfectly fine for your s2000. Go to your favorite store, and pick any big name synthetic that's on sale. End of story. Everything else (assuming you do your changes every 3000-7500 miles) is BS.


I ran Honda oil, then switched to Amsoil synthetic. Car ran great. Went turbo, and started using Mobil1. Car ran great. Saw Valvoline was on sale for like $18 a gallon at walmart, car ran great. Used Castrol on the next one (on sale)...guess what? Car ran great. Back to Mobil1 (on sale) and surprise surprise, car runs great.

On a side note, I have HEARD nightmare stories about Royal Purple products.



*Disclaimer* The above is for MOTOR OIL ONLY. Transmission fluid is another matter, and from my experience (tried them all)...there is a big difference. Amsoil is the best. For the diff, LE is the best, followed closely by Amsoil.

 

There is no motor oil that will make the F20/F22 run like crap.
So, by default, all oils - that (somewhat )fit the recommended 10W-30/5W-40 spec - make it run great.


This does not mean there are sometimes subtle and sometimes very noticable differences.
It is defenitely not all BS.
Going from a 40 weight to a 30 weight, I noticed a difference, especially in the morning and the first km's.
Comparing my UOA's and calclulating wear metals in ppm / 1000 km there also was a difference, for example -50% Fe and -35% Cu.
BS?

Btw.. sometimes the only synthetic part of a modern big house synthetic oil is the plastic bottle.
And the label!


There will never be an End Of Story when it comes to motor oil.
The R&D in the industry will continue to create new oils and additives that will continue to stir things up.

Oh well.....

 

We are not discussing weight here, we are discussing BRAND, and ANY big brand is perfectly fine for the s2000, and will cause it NO HARM.

 

NFRs2000NYC Posted on Sep 23 2010, 04:46 AM
We are?
You are.
Start using big brand Castrol Racing 10W-60 in an MY'00 AP1 and hit the Autobahn @ 120 mph for an hour or so.
One ends up with a scored #4 cyl from oil starvation.
No harm?

One can't discuss oil brand without weight as within brands there is a huge difference in oil chemistry between weights.

The owners manual actually only mentions weight and quality.
Not brand.

The generalisation "any big brand is fine" should include a weight.

And guess what:
SpitfireS Posted on Sep 22 2010, 08:50 PM
[QUOTE]So, by default, all oils - that (somewhat