Is it ok to do this?
09-17-2016, 09:31 AM
#1
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Is it ok to do this?
I did this a few times on my 6mt honda accord.
Instead of doing a full brake flush and clutch fluid flush, i take a sizable syringe and draw out all the old fluid from both the brake master reservoir and slave reservoir. i then add Honda Genuine DOT 3 brake fluid. With the syringe, i draw the fluid inwards and outwards, or reverse draw(suck)to shake up all the contaminants inside the reservoir. I then extract all the fluid once more, and then add some more into the reservoir. on my s2k, the fluid inside the slave reservoir was full of contaminants and was basically cloudy. after my procedure, the fluid appeared to be golden-clear. I usually repeat this every few months until the fluid remains mostly clear.
In my accord, i had no problems doing this.
I assume there wont be any issues as well with the s2k?
btw as mentioned above, i used Honda Genuine DOT 3 brake fluid...it was mentioned on the reservoir caps for both cylinders to use DOT 3 or 4 fluid.
sorry, but im extra paranoid about my s2k
Instead of doing a full brake flush and clutch fluid flush, i take a sizable syringe and draw out all the old fluid from both the brake master reservoir and slave reservoir. i then add Honda Genuine DOT 3 brake fluid. With the syringe, i draw the fluid inwards and outwards, or reverse draw(suck)to shake up all the contaminants inside the reservoir. I then extract all the fluid once more, and then add some more into the reservoir. on my s2k, the fluid inside the slave reservoir was full of contaminants and was basically cloudy. after my procedure, the fluid appeared to be golden-clear. I usually repeat this every few months until the fluid remains mostly clear.
In my accord, i had no problems doing this.
I assume there wont be any issues as well with the s2k?
btw as mentioned above, i used Honda Genuine DOT 3 brake fluid...it was mentioned on the reservoir caps for both cylinders to use DOT 3 or 4 fluid.
sorry, but im extra paranoid about my s2k
09-17-2016, 10:04 AM
#2
If you're extra paranoid, do a full flush. Replacing the fluid only in the reservoir won't get the heavier contaminants that might sink lower into the lines near the calipers. Billman's gravity method is stupid simple.
Drawing out the fluid in just the reservoir and added new fluids will only introduce moisture to the new fluid, since the fluids in the lines will have traces of moisture.
It might help in a pinch, but a full flush is really the only way to go. No reason to half ass it.
Drawing out the fluid in just the reservoir and added new fluids will only introduce moisture to the new fluid, since the fluids in the lines will have traces of moisture.
It might help in a pinch, but a full flush is really the only way to go. No reason to half ass it.
09-17-2016, 11:30 AM
#3
It's ok to do, but the brake lines are longer than the single clutch line, and the brakes leave crud in the caliper. Whenever I do a brake job I pop the bleeder open and I'm always surprised at how much gunk comes out when I compress the piston. What you're doing is fine for the clutch, not so much for the brakes, not to say I couldn't help. Either way you still have to do a full flush eventually.
09-17-2016, 05:59 PM
#4
It is NOT OK to do this. I used to do this until I got into a lengthy argument about it with an engineering buddy of mine.
With the clutch reservoir, it is OK (on the s2000) because the fluid is cycling.
With the brake reservoir, the fluid in the master cylinder is not cycling throughout the entire system very much -- fluid pressure is maintained and very little cycling is going on.
For brakes, you 100% need to flush, and bleed all four corners.
Want proof? If you haven't done a flush and have done the turkey baste method for a few years, go ahead and flush the fluid into a clear plastic water bottle container. It's going to be murky, green, cloudy -- proof is in the pudding (and my engineering buddy won that bet).
For clutch, I am happy with turkey basting (and here's a tip -- my turkey baster would always leak, so try switching to a medicine syringe, $3 from CVS, no leaks!).
With the clutch reservoir, it is OK (on the s2000) because the fluid is cycling.
With the brake reservoir, the fluid in the master cylinder is not cycling throughout the entire system very much -- fluid pressure is maintained and very little cycling is going on.
For brakes, you 100% need to flush, and bleed all four corners.
Want proof? If you haven't done a flush and have done the turkey baste method for a few years, go ahead and flush the fluid into a clear plastic water bottle container. It's going to be murky, green, cloudy -- proof is in the pudding (and my engineering buddy won that bet).
For clutch, I am happy with turkey basting (and here's a tip -- my turkey baster would always leak, so try switching to a medicine syringe, $3 from CVS, no leaks!).
09-17-2016, 10:45 PM
#5
OP, I agree with others posted above. Using your method for the clutch is just fine. Billman250 recommends using your method every 5k to keep the clutch fluid fresh all the time. It increases the lifespan of clutch master cylinder.
But for the brakes, I'd say go ahead and do a gravity bleed to flush out the lines. Billman recently updated his thread to say it's okay to bleed all four corners at once. So grab 4 bottles, 4 hoses, and crack all 4 bleeders for an insanely quick brake flush job, and get the piece of mind it's fresh
But for the brakes, I'd say go ahead and do a gravity bleed to flush out the lines. Billman recently updated his thread to say it's okay to bleed all four corners at once. So grab 4 bottles, 4 hoses, and crack all 4 bleeders for an insanely quick brake flush job, and get the piece of mind it's fresh
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