From what i understanding bent-valve = compression lost. Do a compression leak down test (not guarantee that you don't have a bent valve) but it'll ease your worry if all of the compression is in order. If you'd already opened the valve cover to inspect the springs & retainers then you mind as well taking off the cams and inspect the valve spring retainers properly since you can't tell from the top. If you can't or don't know how to take the cams off then i suggest that you also check the gap on the valves. If everything is fine and the compression fall in its range then you should be fine for awhile but please don't take my words into account. Take it to some good mechanic shop and let them check it properly.

I once over-rev my S to 9800rpm.....reason i know it's 9800rpm is because i have the vafc2 and it recorded( But then again i don't really trust the vafc rpm since it doesn't match up with the tach rpm. For example: If i shifted perfectly right at between 2nd &3rd blink on the redline then the vafc would read almost close to 9200rpm). Anyway, drive it home and do a compression check and it still looking good....225-230 all around. Next day i called the dealer and ordered the valve spring retainers to be on the safe side. Opened the valve cover and check all of the retainers from the top with the mag-glass....hmmm, everything looking good. Check the gap...hmmm, the gap is still in oem spec. But that didn't ease my worriness, and so i took the valve spring retainers apart and wow.....its still looking good! Honda engine is amazing!!! I hope my story will make you sleep better as night . But please don't hold my story accountable and not fixing your car since every car makes differently and i guess mine was lucky that it didn't done any damages. Guess the shift that was assembling my S wasn't drinking sake on the job

 

geez, our engines are weak I hate to say.....

 

^^Lol....not really. I can't think of any car that isn't fully built that can rev up pass 9000rpm. Out of all the engines swap that i had done i think the Skyline(RB25DET) is the weakness and most sensitive engine of all.

 

Congratulations, you just made the money shift. 91 mph in 2nd gear is 12,400 rev's.

There is a good chance your head will need to be removed to perform the necessary repairs

As has been mentioned, do not drive your car until it has been inspected by a competent mechanic.

 

 

You've been told repeatedly to take the car to the shop, but you don't want to do it. You've explained that you overrevved the engine badly, but don't want to take the car to the shop. It's your money, so spend it as you see fit.

 

hmmm... my car is sputtery at idle too. no mild cams though. just a shake once a second or so. however when I opened up the valve cover all retainers are at the correct level. Looking at billman's pictures you can't see if they're cracked from the top but the valve will sit lower on the cotters. all normal.

however this only happens when the car is fully warmed up, only when the rpm's drop from 1000 to 950, and the sputter stops when the fans turn on. also only happens once in a while. maybe it was because my valves were pretty out of spec w/ no ajustment for 88k miles. Just did a valve adjustment and haven't fired the engine up yet. so don't know if it's the same cause but the symptoms sounds similar

 

Id definitely take the car in for a test, doesn't cost a whole lot. When my valves got bent, I had the symptom of the uneasy idle. Problem with me was that I bought the car and started to experience these symptoms down the road, I have yet to give the S a money shift. Anyway, you could drive for days, even months without really noticing it, then the CEL light goes on...
Take it in, get it tested, if the test comes out ok then chalk the uneasy idle to the ecu or something else, but at least you tried. You don't want to have a mechanic tell you sir, one of your valves dropped and scored one of your pistons because you didn't catch it sooner.
Btw, even with belt valves and such, Vtec will still kick in, your car will still feel fine except with the reoccuring idle problem (mine's happens, but no where near to the degree how it was back then), in short, just get it checked.

 

yea don't think it's a misshift on my side though. only possible time was almost 2 years ago. don't think my car would have survived 2 years on a bent valve. also it only started this spring when i put on an aftermarket exhaust. Here's what I'm going to do and what I suggest the other guy. Go to Advance Auto Parts and rent a Cylinder Leakdown Tester. If they don't rent that it's $40 from harbor freight. leakdown testers give a more accurate result than standard compression testers

 

aftermarket exhausts can cause bent valves? what else?