The Physics Involved with Intake Design
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Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Scottsdale
MX5 - Good link
You know you're weird when finding an article like that makes your nipples hard.
BTW in the equation for speed of sound,
k = 1.4 (air) dimensionless
T= deg C + 273.15 (should be somewhere around 330 - 340 K)
R - I'll have to wait till I get to the office to make sure I get it in the right units, but in english units is 1052/MW of the gas
MW of air is 29.2, so R is 36.03 ( I need to find the units )
You know you're weird when finding an article like that makes your nipples hard.
BTW in the equation for speed of sound,
k = 1.4 (air) dimensionless
T= deg C + 273.15 (should be somewhere around 330 - 340 K)
R - I'll have to wait till I get to the office to make sure I get it in the right units, but in english units is 1052/MW of the gas
MW of air is 29.2, so R is 36.03 ( I need to find the units )
I can't believe you said that. 
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 529
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From: Atlanta
Unbelievable, and I thought I thought of it...should of known. This is virtually what I am going to do to my intake but I was sticking with the stock filter. The goal of my version is to keep the air as cool as possible while retaining relative OEM look and Honda's engineering post filter.
My goal is cooler, quicker air. Including the Hondata gasket going in, I will do this mod using an industrial grade rubber(vacuum) hose. 3" ID, 3.5" OD. I am also planning on lining the filter box with ceramic fiber strips which is good for protecting up to 1200 F. More industrial stuff. The hose will empty into the first chamber exactly like this mod and I will cut down or cut a couple of big holes in the baffle.
All the talk about the particle catch in the OEM design baffles me as the air inlet fabricated to the lid completely empties onto the filter and the right side of the baffle. I dont think the filter box is an engineering marvel but full of compromises for practical, space and sound issues.
What hasn't been mentioned is the small gap between the back edge of the air inlet horn and the leading edge of the 90 degree bend built into the lid. My assumption is that if minor water gets into the horn it will stick to the surface via surface friction and collect safely in the first chamber. In this mod, the hose entering from the left still allows water droplets to collect in the first chamber as well so no increased water threat.(usually never drive it in the rain anyway)
I am intrigued by this mod for a couple of reasons:
- It's cheap to try. I will measure air temp at the filter (via hi-tech cooking thermo)before and after to see if my theory is correct. Again, the goal is cooler air, which "should" yield minor power gains. Less or no heat bog if anything.
- It also seems the intake path is more direct this way. Less bends than stock and less bends than a snorkel. Plus no radiator heat to get sucked in.
- The snorkels add 2 additionl bends in the air flow and block flow to a sizable portion of the radiator. And they're pricey for what they are.
- I am using a second-hand intake box to experiment with. If nothing is gained (or lost) in the way of power or air temps I can always go back to stock.
I'm not an Engineer (obviously) but do like experimenting with things like this.
Anyone qualified to explain, technically, why any of this may be a bad idea?
[QUOTE]Originally posted by aRrakis
Hi,
This is a great discussion.
My goal is cooler, quicker air. Including the Hondata gasket going in, I will do this mod using an industrial grade rubber(vacuum) hose. 3" ID, 3.5" OD. I am also planning on lining the filter box with ceramic fiber strips which is good for protecting up to 1200 F. More industrial stuff. The hose will empty into the first chamber exactly like this mod and I will cut down or cut a couple of big holes in the baffle.
All the talk about the particle catch in the OEM design baffles me as the air inlet fabricated to the lid completely empties onto the filter and the right side of the baffle. I dont think the filter box is an engineering marvel but full of compromises for practical, space and sound issues.
What hasn't been mentioned is the small gap between the back edge of the air inlet horn and the leading edge of the 90 degree bend built into the lid. My assumption is that if minor water gets into the horn it will stick to the surface via surface friction and collect safely in the first chamber. In this mod, the hose entering from the left still allows water droplets to collect in the first chamber as well so no increased water threat.(usually never drive it in the rain anyway)
I am intrigued by this mod for a couple of reasons:
- It's cheap to try. I will measure air temp at the filter (via hi-tech cooking thermo)before and after to see if my theory is correct. Again, the goal is cooler air, which "should" yield minor power gains. Less or no heat bog if anything.
- It also seems the intake path is more direct this way. Less bends than stock and less bends than a snorkel. Plus no radiator heat to get sucked in.
- The snorkels add 2 additionl bends in the air flow and block flow to a sizable portion of the radiator. And they're pricey for what they are.
- I am using a second-hand intake box to experiment with. If nothing is gained (or lost) in the way of power or air temps I can always go back to stock.
I'm not an Engineer (obviously) but do like experimenting with things like this.
Anyone qualified to explain, technically, why any of this may be a bad idea?
[QUOTE]Originally posted by aRrakis
Hi,
This is a great discussion.
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