Power from Rear
Originally Posted by srl311too,Oct 26 2007, 02:23 AM
ruexp67: So with an open diff and your one wheel burnout theory, what happens when you try it in reverse?
Lemme know what ya find out!
Lemme know what ya find out!
Why do you call it a theory? It's WELL documented as open diffs were common on the muscle cars from the 60's and 70s. It was the "positraction" rear end (LSD) that got rid of the one wheel burnout.
Originally Posted by SpitfireS,Oct 25 2007, 10:39 PM
watchdogd Posted on Oct 25 2007, 09:46 PM
2/32" = 1.58 mm.
Are YOU saying you have one tire with 1.58mm less profile at the rear?
If so, not good IMO.
I don't think you will ever get such a difference if you start with 2 new (or identically worn) tires.
You probably had a puncture somewhere down the road and had to replace one rear?
Circumference of the OEM front and rear S-02 is 1928mm.
According to Bridgestone.
(That's why you can use the front on the rear)
Diameter is 613.7mm (1928 / 3.14)
Substract 2* 1.58 => 613.7 - 3.16 = 610.5
New circumference => 610.5 * 3.14 = 1918mm
That's 10mm less.
So in 192 revolutions of one "new" wheel the "worn" one is rotating one more.
Now.. no road is exactly straight and no one drives exactly straight all the time.
(the Earth is a sphere.. so
)
IMO 1.5 mm profile depth difference is too much and it's making the LSD work a little harder all of the time.

2/32" = 1.58 mm.
Are YOU saying you have one tire with 1.58mm less profile at the rear?
If so, not good IMO.
I don't think you will ever get such a difference if you start with 2 new (or identically worn) tires.
You probably had a puncture somewhere down the road and had to replace one rear?
Circumference of the OEM front and rear S-02 is 1928mm.
According to Bridgestone.
(That's why you can use the front on the rear)
Diameter is 613.7mm (1928 / 3.14)
Substract 2* 1.58 => 613.7 - 3.16 = 610.5
New circumference => 610.5 * 3.14 = 1918mm
That's 10mm less.
So in 192 revolutions of one "new" wheel the "worn" one is rotating one more.
Now.. no road is exactly straight and no one drives exactly straight all the time.
(the Earth is a sphere.. so
)IMO 1.5 mm profile depth difference is too much and it's making the LSD work a little harder all of the time.

I have cross swapped the rear tires so my directionals are running backward and I still have tighter steering on the left side. The feel is better with the tires swapped but still not 100% even like I know it should be.
I will be taking it to a specialist shop to check the Alignment for the umpteenth time and then I might decide to have them tear open the rack assuming nothing is wrong in the alignment.
This problem has been eating me for three months and this whole "Everything is within factory specification and Tolerance" that the dealer keeps telling me is a bunch of crap.
If it is not fixed I might just sell the damn car back to the dealer and tell honda
Thanks for your reply that is very informative to say the least. I'm still impressed with how you concluded that I had a punctured tire
watchdogd Posted on Oct 26 2007, 06:19 PM
I guessed that because you mentioned you had uneven tire wear.
IMO such a difference between left & right, 1.5 mm, won't "grow" because of driving (maybe at a track with only left hand corners?)
So I figured you at one point had a puncture that could not be fixed and had to buy 1 new rear tire.
Leaving you with one "worn" rear tire and one new rear tire and 1.5 mm thread depth difference between left & right.
No Sherlock involved.
But you patched it so that theory went out the window
What make & size rear (and front) tires are we talking about?
Is the car lowered?
Aftermarket wheels?
If that's your car in the picture.. it looks OEM
Pay attention to the front caster, if there is a lot of difference between those it may cause the "tighter steering to the left".
(the left side wheel base is not the same as the right side wheel base)
On the S2000 front suspension the caster IS adjustable.
Proper allignment shops have the equipment to measure the caster.
Something is making your rear tires wear very uneven.
Post your current allignment specs?
I'm still impressed with how you concluded that I had a punctured tire
IMO such a difference between left & right, 1.5 mm, won't "grow" because of driving (maybe at a track with only left hand corners?)
So I figured you at one point had a puncture that could not be fixed and had to buy 1 new rear tire.
Leaving you with one "worn" rear tire and one new rear tire and 1.5 mm thread depth difference between left & right.
No Sherlock involved.
But you patched it so that theory went out the window

I have cross swapped the rear tires so my directionals are running backward and I still have tighter steering on the left side. The feel is better with the tires swapped but still not 100% even like I know it should be.
Is the car lowered?
Aftermarket wheels?
If that's your car in the picture.. it looks OEM
I will be taking it to a specialist shop to check the Alignment for the umpteenth time and then I might decide to have them tear open the rack assuming nothing is wrong in the alignment.
(the left side wheel base is not the same as the right side wheel base)
On the S2000 front suspension the caster IS adjustable.
Proper allignment shops have the equipment to measure the caster.
Something is making your rear tires wear very uneven.
Post your current allignment specs?
[QUOTE=SpitfireS,Oct 26 2007, 09:33 AM] watchdogd Posted on Oct 26 2007, 06:19 PM
I guessed that because you mentioned you had uneven tire wear.
IMO such a difference between left & right, 1.5 mm, won't "grow" because of driving (maybe at a track with only left hand corners?)
So I figured you at one point had a puncture that could not be fixed and had to buy 1 new rear tire.
Leaving you with one "worn" rear tire and one new rear tire and 1.5 mm thread depth difference between left & right.
No Sherlock involved.
But you patched it so that theory went out the window
I guessed that because you mentioned you had uneven tire wear.
IMO such a difference between left & right, 1.5 mm, won't "grow" because of driving (maybe at a track with only left hand corners?)
So I figured you at one point had a puncture that could not be fixed and had to buy 1 new rear tire.
Leaving you with one "worn" rear tire and one new rear tire and 1.5 mm thread depth difference between left & right.
No Sherlock involved.
But you patched it so that theory went out the window
Pssst... to watchdogd.. it's not realy necessary to quote the complete post.. it makes the thread a bit long to read.. no offence
Question about the left right front toe in/out.
Are they both positive?
The OEM (MY00) toe specs are 0 toe, zero degrees and inch.
Zero as in nothing, no toe.
I'm not sure its the same for MY07, but it may help.
At the rear the toe for a MY00 (yes, different suspension set-up) is 0'20", that's 0 degree and 20 minutes, 0.33 (decimal) degree, per wheel.
0.07" seems a little less but that could be me not being familiar with inch setting for toe in/out.
The Honda dealer explained the uneven tire wear at the rear with the "right wheel = favorite LSD side story"?
Getting that uneven rear tire wear explained & sorted out is also important.
Its not that the inside of a tire is more worn then the outside of the same tire?
(because of the camber)
There is a difference between left and right tire?
Are those rear tires the same make & model & size & etc.. 100% sure?
And when they patched the puncture they gave you your tire back?
Puzzling....
Question about the left right front toe in/out.
Are they both positive?
The OEM (MY00) toe specs are 0 toe, zero degrees and inch.
Zero as in nothing, no toe.
I'm not sure its the same for MY07, but it may help.
At the rear the toe for a MY00 (yes, different suspension set-up) is 0'20", that's 0 degree and 20 minutes, 0.33 (decimal) degree, per wheel.
0.07" seems a little less but that could be me not being familiar with inch setting for toe in/out.
The Honda dealer explained the uneven tire wear at the rear with the "right wheel = favorite LSD side story"?
Getting that uneven rear tire wear explained & sorted out is also important.
Its not that the inside of a tire is more worn then the outside of the same tire?
(because of the camber)
There is a difference between left and right tire?
Are those rear tires the same make & model & size & etc.. 100% sure?
And when they patched the puncture they gave you your tire back?
Puzzling....
Originally Posted by SpitfireS,Oct 26 2007, 11:25 AM
Pssst... to watchdogd.. it's not realy necessary to quote the complete post.. it makes the thread a bit long to read.. no offence
Question about the left right front toe in/out.
Are they both positive?
The OEM (MY00) toe specs are 0 toe, zero degrees and inch.
Zero as in nothing, no toe.
I'm not sure its the same for MY07, but it may help.
At the rear the toe for a MY00 (yes, different suspension set-up) is 0'20", that's 0 degree and 20 minutes, 0.33 (decimal) degree, per wheel.
0.07" seems a little less but that could be me not being familiar with inch setting for toe in/out.
The Honda dealer explained the uneven tire wear at the rear with the "right wheel = favorite LSD side story"?
Getting that uneven rear tire wear explained & sorted out is also important.
Its not that the inside of a tire is more worn then the outside of the same tire?
(because of the camber)
There is a difference between left and right tire?
Are those rear tires the same make & model & size & etc.. 100% sure?
And when they patched the puncture they gave you your tire back?
Puzzling....

Question about the left right front toe in/out.
Are they both positive?
The OEM (MY00) toe specs are 0 toe, zero degrees and inch.
Zero as in nothing, no toe.
I'm not sure its the same for MY07, but it may help.
At the rear the toe for a MY00 (yes, different suspension set-up) is 0'20", that's 0 degree and 20 minutes, 0.33 (decimal) degree, per wheel.
0.07" seems a little less but that could be me not being familiar with inch setting for toe in/out.
The Honda dealer explained the uneven tire wear at the rear with the "right wheel = favorite LSD side story"?
Getting that uneven rear tire wear explained & sorted out is also important.
Its not that the inside of a tire is more worn then the outside of the same tire?
(because of the camber)
There is a difference between left and right tire?
Are those rear tires the same make & model & size & etc.. 100% sure?
And when they patched the puncture they gave you your tire back?
Puzzling....

The specified range is -.04 to .04 according to the printout I am looking at from the dealer.
It was Discount Tire that fixed my tire and told me that the tread was about 2/32 different between the rears. They are wearing evenly just one is wearing faster than the other.
Yes it was one of the dealerships that mentioned "the whole LSD explanation".
I do not drive hard and have never Raced the car on a track or at a drag. Both rear tires are the stock Bridgestones that came with the car. Same make model etc.
Without any pull or drifting I am not sure how the tires would be the reason for resistnace but maybe there is something I am missing.
One more thing, I doubt the car is suppose to feel this way, but drive strictly with your right hand instead of left as most of us do. Do you notice any difference in steering resistance between left and right ?
I notice that the right just feels lazyier or easier if you will and you can actually leave the steering wheel tilted right and it will comfortably stay that way but if you try to leave it tiled left it gradually returns to center.
I am curious if Rack or another lose component can cause this ?
I notice that the right just feels lazyier or easier if you will and you can actually leave the steering wheel tilted right and it will comfortably stay that way but if you try to leave it tiled left it gradually returns to center.
I am curious if Rack or another lose component can cause this ?
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