Pulling Out of Storage - Stuff to Check?
My '04 has around 80k miles and has been sitting in a non-climate-controlled IL garage (-20 to 100F temp range) for 2 years. I applied fuel stabilizer before storing it. Prior to that, it had recently had the timing chain replaced, and tranny+engine oil+dif oil+brake fluid changed. Since new, it has only had this kind of basic maintenance.
It's too late for this season, so it's going to sit for another ~6 months. Any tips for things to get done immediately in the spring? I'm especially wondering about the suspension - all the rubber components are original. Budget is flexible so I'm fine being a little aggressive in terms of what is serviced.
No brainer stuff:
new battery
check tires for flat spots
change all fluids inc coolant
drain gas?
Anything else?
It's too late for this season, so it's going to sit for another ~6 months. Any tips for things to get done immediately in the spring? I'm especially wondering about the suspension - all the rubber components are original. Budget is flexible so I'm fine being a little aggressive in terms of what is serviced.
No brainer stuff:
new battery
check tires for flat spots
change all fluids inc coolant
drain gas?
Anything else?
Pull fuel pump fuse, crank until oil light out.
Tire flat spots might be saved with miles and heat. So don't give up on them too quickly. Unless they're also aging out. Check date codes.
Buy some ATP AT-205: Amazon
Put it into a spray bottle, and spray any rubber stuff you're concerned about. Do this now, so it can soak in, not in spring. It can protect and rejuvenate rubber. Its meant for automatic transmission seals, but it works great on rubber in harsh environments.
Tire flat spots might be saved with miles and heat. So don't give up on them too quickly. Unless they're also aging out. Check date codes.
Buy some ATP AT-205: Amazon
Put it into a spray bottle, and spray any rubber stuff you're concerned about. Do this now, so it can soak in, not in spring. It can protect and rejuvenate rubber. Its meant for automatic transmission seals, but it works great on rubber in harsh environments.
Do a good inspection for rodent damage. This would be a good time so you can get replacement stuff if you find problems. Clean out any nests that you can find.
You may want to apply a good leather conditioner and let it really soak in. I know the "leather" in our cars is really a plasticized material with leather included but something like Honey Leather Conditioner is good stuff. I use it in my Benz as well as the S.
Curious: why was the timing chain replaced at 80K miles?
You may want to apply a good leather conditioner and let it really soak in. I know the "leather" in our cars is really a plasticized material with leather included but something like Honey Leather Conditioner is good stuff. I use it in my Benz as well as the S.
Curious: why was the timing chain replaced at 80K miles?
as above- pull fuel pump fuse.
However, consider clutch interlock bypass first- this way you won't dry start with pressure on the thrust bearing. Then, run the starter till the oil light goes out. Put the fuel pump fuse back in. Start without the clutch pedal pressed in.
maybe you remembered to leave the parking brake off. Maybe you didn't. However, if you left the parking brake on...the pads may be rusted to the rotors.
I wouldn't worry about the fuel, but go easy on things until the tank is partially drained. Fill to the top with premium fuel (we get 94 here).
darcy
However, consider clutch interlock bypass first- this way you won't dry start with pressure on the thrust bearing. Then, run the starter till the oil light goes out. Put the fuel pump fuse back in. Start without the clutch pedal pressed in.
maybe you remembered to leave the parking brake off. Maybe you didn't. However, if you left the parking brake on...the pads may be rusted to the rotors.
I wouldn't worry about the fuel, but go easy on things until the tank is partially drained. Fill to the top with premium fuel (we get 94 here).
darcy
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