simon_2k

Any idea why the cooling fan & AC fan would not be running?

I've also checked the cooling fan fuse, it's still good.

Just swapped out my radiator today to replace another OEM one but now my fans aren't running. All 3 connectors have been securely plugged in and clicked. Engine was warmed up and heater on max with fans on high, no response from the fans and it was just blowing cool air.

Any help is appreciated, thanks!

afzan

So you replaced your rad and now the heater is blowing cold air?

You 100% have air in the system. Look up the billman technique and follow that

solitarycheese

Just did a coolant change and air burp this weekend - when I first started burping the system, I found that the radiator fans won't come on when there's still a significant amount of air in the system. Something about trapped air preventing the thermostat from opening? My scanner showed temps of 235* so I shut it down. After doing some more burping the fans would cycle on at about 214* and cool the car to 194*, but my heat wasn't hot hot yet. It took quite a bit more burping to purge all the air and for the heat to get really hot. I highly recommend the Lisle spill free funnel, makes burping really simple.

simon_2k

Would you mind sharing with me step by step on how you burped the system? I've tried using Billman's bleeding method at least ten times and there's still air in there I can't get out...

simon_2k

Took a risky move.

Warmed the cold engine up with the radiator cap off until operating temp, turned off the car, cap back on, started car and went on a 5 min drive. Luckily, no overheating but unfortunately, no heater still. I'm not sure what to conclude from this.

Any help is appreciated, thanks.

Slowcrash_101

To properly bleed the car, you can burp but ultimately you have to use the bleeder.

To burp the car take off the rad cap, then just stick a spill free funnel in the radiator, and run the car. Just keep squeezing the top radiator hose over and over and over and over again while the car is running until you no longer see bubbles in the coolant that has expanded into the funnel. Then when you finish use a hand pump or turkey baster, and transfer the fluid in the funnel to the overflow bottle, and cap the radiator. Now after the heater is blowing hot air, run the car for a bit more, then shut it off after the fans come on. With the car off, squeeze and hold the upper rad hose, and open the bleeder on the head with the hose still squeezed, if you see coolant spurt out right away close it right away. Never unsqueeze the upper rad hose with the bleeder open, you will suck in air. If you have air in the system the car will drive fine and then it will suddenly overheat and then you'll be up creek without a paddle.

solitarycheese

Basically this. I used the Lisle Spill free funnel - it comes with attachments that form an air tight seal with your radiator. Fill the funnel about 1/4 of the way. I had to (very slowly and gently) blip the the throttle a few times - this eliminated a big pocket of air, and the radiator "drank" down the coolant in the funnel quite a bit (top off the coolant in the funnel, you don't want to run it dry). Once that pocket was gone, my radiator fans could run. Every time the fans cycled on and off again, I would shut the car off, squeeze the upper radiator hose, and crack the bleeder bolt - then close the bolt with the hose still squeezed. You should be checking the heat from the vents as you do this - you'll start asking yourself "Is this how hot its supposed to be?" - NOPE. You'll know when its at full temperature, the heat turns sharply hot.

simon_2k

Yeah, I did Billman's coolant bleed quite a couple times (10+ times) and I finally got all the air out. Heater is running at full lower and fans are too (I'm guessing since I'm not overheating).