Radiator replacement
yeah, I also have to agree, use the spring clamps, screws always loosen over time. Like mine for my comptech intake, they loosened, and we had a customer car come in, used the screw type, ended up looseneing on his radiator, which later caused his transmission to overheat and destroy itself. just a FYI
Hey Shannon,
First of all
, hi stranger. Miss you out here.
OKay now down to business. Sorry I didn't see your post/question earlier. I had to do my OEM radiator last summer. It had a good long life.
It really is pretty straightforward, if not a little messy (duh). If you haven't done a coolant flush yet that it is about time anyway. Follow the DIY on that (coolant flush) and watch for air bubbles trapped in the system. Use the bleeder valve in the coolant line located against the firewall, and watch your temp gauge on the dash. The only time I have ever seen mine read anything other than 3 bars (AP1 - people
) is when I did my first coolant flush....had a bubble....test drive jumped to 5 bars
). Scared the shiite outta me, pulled over right away. Burped it (haha) and all was good.
My best piece of adcice would be to watch out for the sharp edges on the fan shroud. I have a nice scar from a knuckle-buster I got while loosening the switch down on the bottom. Opened up a nice cut AND got old coolant in it all at the same time
OUCH. DAve (s2000Nvegas) can attest and was chuckling at me.
Hope you did fine. I'm sure you did.
KIT,
Hockey
First of all
, hi stranger. Miss you out here.OKay now down to business. Sorry I didn't see your post/question earlier. I had to do my OEM radiator last summer. It had a good long life.
It really is pretty straightforward, if not a little messy (duh). If you haven't done a coolant flush yet that it is about time anyway. Follow the DIY on that (coolant flush) and watch for air bubbles trapped in the system. Use the bleeder valve in the coolant line located against the firewall, and watch your temp gauge on the dash. The only time I have ever seen mine read anything other than 3 bars (AP1 - people
) is when I did my first coolant flush....had a bubble....test drive jumped to 5 bars
). Scared the shiite outta me, pulled over right away. Burped it (haha) and all was good.My best piece of adcice would be to watch out for the sharp edges on the fan shroud. I have a nice scar from a knuckle-buster I got while loosening the switch down on the bottom. Opened up a nice cut AND got old coolant in it all at the same time
OUCH. DAve (s2000Nvegas) can attest and was chuckling at me.Hope you did fine. I'm sure you did.
KIT,
Hockey
Originally Posted by Billman250,Dec 2 2007, 01:35 PM
The most important tip is to make sure all the air is out of the cooling system. An S2000 can be driven up to 20 miles with air in the system, then suddenly overheat without warning.
If you don't mind, do you have any other tips in bleeding the system of air that might be different than xvipers coolant flush thread?
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=86811
Originally Posted by mynameisneo,Dec 3 2007, 02:11 PM
Whow! 143K miles! That's like around the world twice! Have you considered your carbon footrpint!?? I'm telling Al Gore!
-Hockey
Originally Posted by Hockey,Dec 3 2007, 09:40 AM
Hey Shannon,
First of all
, hi stranger. Miss you out here.
OKay now down to business. Sorry I didn't see your post/question earlier. I had to do my OEM radiator last summer. It had a good long life.
It really is pretty straightforward, if not a little messy (duh). If you haven't done a coolant flush yet that it is about time anyway. Follow the DIY on that (coolant flush) and watch for air bubbles trapped in the system. Use the bleeder valve in the coolant line located against the firewall, and watch your temp gauge on the dash. The only time I have ever seen mine read anything other than 3 bars (AP1 - people
) is when I did my first coolant flush....had a bubble....test drive jumped to 5 bars
). Scared the shiite outta me, pulled over right away. Burped it (haha) and all was good.
My best piece of adcice would be to watch out for the sharp edges on the fan shroud. I have a nice scar from a knuckle-buster I got while loosening the switch down on the bottom. Opened up a nice cut AND got old coolant in it all at the same time
OUCH. DAve (s2000Nvegas) can attest and was chuckling at me.
Hope you did fine. I'm sure you did.
KIT,
Hockey
First of all
, hi stranger. Miss you out here.OKay now down to business. Sorry I didn't see your post/question earlier. I had to do my OEM radiator last summer. It had a good long life.
It really is pretty straightforward, if not a little messy (duh). If you haven't done a coolant flush yet that it is about time anyway. Follow the DIY on that (coolant flush) and watch for air bubbles trapped in the system. Use the bleeder valve in the coolant line located against the firewall, and watch your temp gauge on the dash. The only time I have ever seen mine read anything other than 3 bars (AP1 - people
) is when I did my first coolant flush....had a bubble....test drive jumped to 5 bars
). Scared the shiite outta me, pulled over right away. Burped it (haha) and all was good.My best piece of adcice would be to watch out for the sharp edges on the fan shroud. I have a nice scar from a knuckle-buster I got while loosening the switch down on the bottom. Opened up a nice cut AND got old coolant in it all at the same time
OUCH. DAve (s2000Nvegas) can attest and was chuckling at me.Hope you did fine. I'm sure you did.
KIT,
Hockey
I figured you'd have something to say here
Yeah this was my first complete change... and yes, I didn't get all the air out and I hit 5 bars this morning
lol I thought I had burped it all out, guess not! haha Fine now though.Thanks for the tips
Next up on my car is the TCT - that seems like cake... no mess, and quick, can't beat that!thanks for posting
Shannon,
I just did a TCT for a fellow SD member last week. It is cake. 10mm socket and a big 'ole allen key. Make sure the motor is cold, cuz you're working right up in the block. Remove the electrical connector for the VTEC solenoid to get easier access.
You and I have it lucky with the Comptech CAI. He had the stock airbox still, which I had to remove in order to gain access to pull the cauder pin. It'll be much easier for you, not that removing the stock airbox is difficult, just added work.
xoxo,
David
I just did a TCT for a fellow SD member last week. It is cake. 10mm socket and a big 'ole allen key. Make sure the motor is cold, cuz you're working right up in the block. Remove the electrical connector for the VTEC solenoid to get easier access.
You and I have it lucky with the Comptech CAI. He had the stock airbox still, which I had to remove in order to gain access to pull the cauder pin. It'll be much easier for you, not that removing the stock airbox is difficult, just added work.
xoxo,
David







