Radiator replacement
Originally Posted by clps2k,Dec 5 2007, 04:06 PM
can i get a pic of where the bleeder valve is ? please
thanks,
CLPs2k
thanks,
CLPs2k
The other one is on the intake manifold right near the valve cover, at the front of the engine. The bolt faces upward.
The manual says to open the bleeders AFTER you've drained the radiator.
So, I don't know if coolant will flow out every where if you take the cap of the heater bypass hose with the cooling system full.
Basically, the manual says to fill the radiator with type II Honda coolant, and when coolant starts to flow steadily out of the bleeders, close them (the bleed bolt and the bleed cap).
The next step in the manual says to start the car with the rad cap off untill fully warmed up (fan comes on twice). Then re-fill up to the bottom of filler neck if necessary. Put rad cap back on and re-start car to check for leaks.
I would think that if you ran the motor WITHOUT the rad cap for two complete fan cycles, the coolant would rise and spill out of the radiator

I guess you could leave it just a little bit low during this procedure, or just simply shut it off if coolant starts flowing out of the radiator.
Don't even bother with the manual, unless you want a ground full of coolant and an overheating s2k 
1 Fill system with both bleeders open. Replace rad cap and close bleeders. You are now done with the rubber bleeder.
2 Start car with heat on high/hot, run till 3 bars, plus 1 minute.
3 Turn car off, open front bleeder screw. Air will hiss out, close when you see coolant.
4 top off rad, once it's safe to open cap. Use caution.
-repeat steps 2-4 till heat is hot, and rad stops taking coolant.
usually 3 cycles....

1 Fill system with both bleeders open. Replace rad cap and close bleeders. You are now done with the rubber bleeder.
2 Start car with heat on high/hot, run till 3 bars, plus 1 minute.
3 Turn car off, open front bleeder screw. Air will hiss out, close when you see coolant.
4 top off rad, once it's safe to open cap. Use caution.
-repeat steps 2-4 till heat is hot, and rad stops taking coolant.
usually 3 cycles....
Originally Posted by Billman250,Dec 5 2007, 06:56 PM
Don't even bother with the manual, unless you want a ground full of coolant and an overheating s2k 
1 Fill system with both bleeders open. Replace rad cap and close bleeders. You are now done with the rubber bleeder.
2 Start car with heat on high/hot, run till 3 bars, plus 1 minute.
3 Turn car off, open front bleeder screw. Air will hiss out, close when you see coolant.
4 top off rad, once it's safe to open cap. Use caution.
-repeat steps 2-4 till heat is hot, and rad stops taking coolant.
usually 3 cycles....

1 Fill system with both bleeders open. Replace rad cap and close bleeders. You are now done with the rubber bleeder.
2 Start car with heat on high/hot, run till 3 bars, plus 1 minute.
3 Turn car off, open front bleeder screw. Air will hiss out, close when you see coolant.
4 top off rad, once it's safe to open cap. Use caution.
-repeat steps 2-4 till heat is hot, and rad stops taking coolant.
usually 3 cycles....
If you don't want coolant dripping down the side of your engine, put some clear vinyl tubing (don't know exact size) on the bleeder bolt at the front of the engine. The other end can go into a collection container.
I would still spray the area with water as coolant can damage the paint.
ok so i took off the rubber cap off the silver pipe behind the motor and the air bubbles started to come out of the radiator. seems as if all bubbles have been dispursed from the radiator. i m now going for a lil drive to see what happens. hopefully all will be fine. i will write bak if the car blows up lol
thanks for the tip everybody.
thanks for the tip everybody.






