refacing flywheel
I went too long on the clutch disk. It's way past the service limit, and the pressure plate has burn spots plus a few tiny surface cracks, so it will be replaced as well.
How ever the flywheel is within spec (less than .006 runout) dimensionally, but has a few discolored spots, no cracking. 0.004" off the surface would be enough to make it completely flat.
However the manual says refacing the flywheel is "not recommended." It does not say "not allowed," so conventional wisdow says it is in fact ok, but the dealer would rather sell you a new one.
Aside from that, any actual experience out there on refacing the stock flywheel?
How ever the flywheel is within spec (less than .006 runout) dimensionally, but has a few discolored spots, no cracking. 0.004" off the surface would be enough to make it completely flat.
However the manual says refacing the flywheel is "not recommended." It does not say "not allowed," so conventional wisdow says it is in fact ok, but the dealer would rather sell you a new one.
Aside from that, any actual experience out there on refacing the stock flywheel?
I've done it, others have done it. But it must be step machined, to preserve the clamping force and T/O bearing position. Cutting only the friction surface is not acceptable, and will likely damage the new clutch and more.
Originally Posted by billman250,Nov 22 2004, 08:01 PM
I've done it, others have done it. But it must be step machined, to preserve the clamping force and T/O bearing position. Cutting only the friction surface is not acceptable, and will likely damage the new clutch and more.
Makes sense, but not doing it would not reduce clampling force any more than normal disk wear. From new to minimum spec on disk is over 0.1 inch, while reface would not even be .01. It might matter toward the end of disk life, but mine kept clamping until I ran into the rivets on the pressure plate side. Disk was .015 below min spec for replacement.
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