Regrease shifter DIY
#151
had a question about applying shin etsu. Where exactly do we apply it - on the metal shifter column under the rubber boot? Pictures would be welcome :-)
i cracked both the original and the spare pivot cover (plastic ball) i bought from majestic honda.. Forgot to place it in hot water. Had no choice but to order another one for $22 - wtf, that part cost $2 a couple of years ago, and still costs less than that in the uk.
i cracked both the original and the spare pivot cover (plastic ball) i bought from majestic honda.. Forgot to place it in hot water. Had no choice but to order another one for $22 - wtf, that part cost $2 a couple of years ago, and still costs less than that in the uk.
#152
I applied the urea, talking about the OP,s last paragraph where he says about using Shin Etsu
Now reinstall the rubber boot. This is where you apply Shin Etsu to the shifter column - below the lip where the rubber will rest - this is to keep it from squeaking. Reinstall the plastic ring on the rubber boot, apply the grease to the shifter, then slide the boot down over the shifter and snap the plastic ring back in.
#153
Rubber stuff gets shin etsu, metal stuff that grinds gets urea grease.
#154
So I was able to take everything out (the foam insulator had become playdoh) without breaking the tabs, but now the shifter won't come out after removing the 3 bolts. I had been having trouble pulling the shifter up after pressing down to go into reverse, which was the original reason I needed to do this.
Interestingly, the shifter didn't pop up after I removed the bolts. Wonder if the cup broke into pieces and got dislodged. As hard as I pulled up, the shifter just won't budge. Any ideas?
Interestingly, the shifter didn't pop up after I removed the bolts. Wonder if the cup broke into pieces and got dislodged. As hard as I pulled up, the shifter just won't budge. Any ideas?
#155
So I was able to take everything out (the foam insulator had become playdoh) without breaking the tabs, but now the shifter won't come out after removing the 3 bolts. I had been having trouble pulling the shifter up after pressing down to go into reverse, which was the original reason I needed to do this.
Interestingly, the shifter didn't pop up after I removed the bolts. Wonder if the cup broke into pieces and got dislodged. As hard as I pulled up, the shifter just won't budge. Any ideas?
Interestingly, the shifter didn't pop up after I removed the bolts. Wonder if the cup broke into pieces and got dislodged. As hard as I pulled up, the shifter just won't budge. Any ideas?
Last edited by plato; 05-31-2017 at 03:58 PM.
#156
Alright, finally tackled this project this weekend. All went pretty well but something is wrong. I replaced the plastic pieces, including the Change Lever Ball Seat. I tested it all out and it works OK, except the stick now moves MUCH farther to the right (passenger side) than it did before. Additionally, it seems like I no longer have to push the stick down to get into reverse.
I'm thinking that when I attached the new plastic Change Lever Ball Seat I attached it with the wrong orientation. Does this make sense? I saw on another post someone said "install the stick bent towards the driver". I did this but still have the issue mentioned above.
On the far end of the stick, there's a small metal "tab" that sticks out. I'm thinking this has to do with the reverse lockout and it needs to be pointing the opposite direction from where it is pointing now (I think it points towards the passenger side if I remember correctly).
Thanks in advance for the help!
I'm thinking that when I attached the new plastic Change Lever Ball Seat I attached it with the wrong orientation. Does this make sense? I saw on another post someone said "install the stick bent towards the driver". I did this but still have the issue mentioned above.
On the far end of the stick, there's a small metal "tab" that sticks out. I'm thinking this has to do with the reverse lockout and it needs to be pointing the opposite direction from where it is pointing now (I think it points towards the passenger side if I remember correctly).
Thanks in advance for the help!
#157
OK, so if anyone ends up replacing the plastic pieces, you will find there is a specific way of reattaching the new plastic so that the whole unit can go back in the proper direction. Note the photo, this is the orientation the shifter needs to go in. The small metal rectangular tab towards the bottom needs to be pointing towards the driver side. That little tab enables the reverse lockout feature (kinda important).
So when you reattach the plastic collar, do so with the little bump pointing towards the engine, and this rectangular tab towards the driver. This way everything should go in and work properly. GOOD LUCK!
So when you reattach the plastic collar, do so with the little bump pointing towards the engine, and this rectangular tab towards the driver. This way everything should go in and work properly. GOOD LUCK!
#158
Just finished this job. It isn't too hard but I'd like to add a few notes:
1. To add to the previous post, it is imperative to put the new ball seat on in the same orientation as the original. Otherwise, the shifter will not be reinstalled properly and the reverse lockout won't work. Before removing the old ball seat, determine the proper orientation by finding the notch that runs down one side of the ball seat. Make a mark on the metal shifter so you can install the new one with the notch on the same side.
2. Get a new spring. The old one can be pretty worn depending on the age of your car. It will remove some of the slop.
1. To add to the previous post, it is imperative to put the new ball seat on in the same orientation as the original. Otherwise, the shifter will not be reinstalled properly and the reverse lockout won't work. Before removing the old ball seat, determine the proper orientation by finding the notch that runs down one side of the ball seat. Make a mark on the metal shifter so you can install the new one with the notch on the same side.
2. Get a new spring. The old one can be pretty worn depending on the age of your car. It will remove some of the slop.
#159
Just finished this job. It isn't too hard but I'd like to add a few notes:
1. To add to the previous post, it is imperative to put the new ball seat on in the same orientation as the original. Otherwise, the shifter will not be reinstalled properly and the reverse lockout won't work. Before removing the old ball seat, determine the proper orientation by finding the notch that runs down one side of the ball seat. Make a mark on the metal shifter so you can install the new one with the notch on the same side.
2. Get a new spring. The old one can be pretty worn depending on the age of your car. It will remove some of the slop.
1. To add to the previous post, it is imperative to put the new ball seat on in the same orientation as the original. Otherwise, the shifter will not be reinstalled properly and the reverse lockout won't work. Before removing the old ball seat, determine the proper orientation by finding the notch that runs down one side of the ball seat. Make a mark on the metal shifter so you can install the new one with the notch on the same side.
2. Get a new spring. The old one can be pretty worn depending on the age of your car. It will remove some of the slop.
#160