S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Regrease shifter DIY

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Old May 26, 2017 | 03:04 PM
  #151  
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Originally Posted by plato
had a question about applying shin etsu. Where exactly do we apply it - on the metal shifter column under the rubber boot? Pictures would be welcome :-)

i cracked both the original and the spare pivot cover (plastic ball) i bought from majestic honda.. Forgot to place it in hot water. Had no choice but to order another one for $22 - wtf, that part cost $2 a couple of years ago, and still costs less than that in the uk.
urea high temp.grease.
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Old May 26, 2017 | 03:56 PM
  #152  
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Originally Posted by Emil St-Hilaire
urea high temp.grease.
I applied the urea, talking about the OP,s last paragraph where he says about using Shin Etsu


Now reinstall the rubber boot. This is where you apply Shin Etsu to the shifter column - below the lip where the rubber will rest - this is to keep it from squeaking. Reinstall the plastic ring on the rubber boot, apply the grease to the shifter, then slide the boot down over the shifter and snap the plastic ring back in.
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Old May 26, 2017 | 04:31 PM
  #153  
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Rubber stuff gets shin etsu, metal stuff that grinds gets urea grease.
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Old May 27, 2017 | 12:13 PM
  #154  
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So I was able to take everything out (the foam insulator had become playdoh) without breaking the tabs, but now the shifter won't come out after removing the 3 bolts. I had been having trouble pulling the shifter up after pressing down to go into reverse, which was the original reason I needed to do this.

Interestingly, the shifter didn't pop up after I removed the bolts. Wonder if the cup broke into pieces and got dislodged. As hard as I pulled up, the shifter just won't budge. Any ideas?
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Old May 31, 2017 | 03:55 PM
  #155  
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Originally Posted by EchoOfSilence
So I was able to take everything out (the foam insulator had become playdoh) without breaking the tabs, but now the shifter won't come out after removing the 3 bolts. I had been having trouble pulling the shifter up after pressing down to go into reverse, which was the original reason I needed to do this.

Interestingly, the shifter didn't pop up after I removed the bolts. Wonder if the cup broke into pieces and got dislodged. As hard as I pulled up, the shifter just won't budge. Any ideas?
In what gear is the shifter in - maybe it's in reverse? Have you pressed on the clutch to jiggle it?

Last edited by plato; May 31, 2017 at 03:58 PM.
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Old Jun 18, 2017 | 03:36 PM
  #156  
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Alright, finally tackled this project this weekend. All went pretty well but something is wrong. I replaced the plastic pieces, including the Change Lever Ball Seat. I tested it all out and it works OK, except the stick now moves MUCH farther to the right (passenger side) than it did before. Additionally, it seems like I no longer have to push the stick down to get into reverse.

I'm thinking that when I attached the new plastic Change Lever Ball Seat I attached it with the wrong orientation. Does this make sense? I saw on another post someone said "install the stick bent towards the driver". I did this but still have the issue mentioned above.

On the far end of the stick, there's a small metal "tab" that sticks out. I'm thinking this has to do with the reverse lockout and it needs to be pointing the opposite direction from where it is pointing now (I think it points towards the passenger side if I remember correctly).

Thanks in advance for the help!
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Old Jun 28, 2017 | 09:31 PM
  #157  
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OK, so if anyone ends up replacing the plastic pieces, you will find there is a specific way of reattaching the new plastic so that the whole unit can go back in the proper direction. Note the photo, this is the orientation the shifter needs to go in. The small metal rectangular tab towards the bottom needs to be pointing towards the driver side. That little tab enables the reverse lockout feature (kinda important).

So when you reattach the plastic collar, do so with the little bump pointing towards the engine, and this rectangular tab towards the driver. This way everything should go in and work properly. GOOD LUCK!

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Old Jul 15, 2017 | 12:50 PM
  #158  
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Just finished this job. It isn't too hard but I'd like to add a few notes:

1. To add to the previous post, it is imperative to put the new ball seat on in the same orientation as the original. Otherwise, the shifter will not be reinstalled properly and the reverse lockout won't work. Before removing the old ball seat, determine the proper orientation by finding the notch that runs down one side of the ball seat. Make a mark on the metal shifter so you can install the new one with the notch on the same side.

2. Get a new spring. The old one can be pretty worn depending on the age of your car. It will remove some of the slop.
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Old Jul 16, 2017 | 07:29 PM
  #159  
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Originally Posted by jookydrinker
Just finished this job. It isn't too hard but I'd like to add a few notes:

1. To add to the previous post, it is imperative to put the new ball seat on in the same orientation as the original. Otherwise, the shifter will not be reinstalled properly and the reverse lockout won't work. Before removing the old ball seat, determine the proper orientation by finding the notch that runs down one side of the ball seat. Make a mark on the metal shifter so you can install the new one with the notch on the same side.

2. Get a new spring. The old one can be pretty worn depending on the age of your car. It will remove some of the slop.
Do you recommend getting the two white plastic housings along with the spring?
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Old Jul 16, 2017 | 08:01 PM
  #160  
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Originally Posted by steven88
Do you recommend getting the two white plastic housings along with the spring?
Yes I do. I broke the small white plastic cap when I removed it. And get the big white plastic ball seat as well as I broke that too in order to get it off.
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