So it’s about the time to replace the clutch on my 2002 Honda s2000 with 114k miles still factory clutch. There is yet no problems with my clutch or strange sounds, just very stiff pedal and 114k miles on factory clutch so it about time for a new one before something happens. After several hours of research I’ve concluded I’m going with

OEM Clutch disc
Resurface flywheel
Clean and resurface pressure plate
OEM release bearing/throw out
OEM pilot bearing
OEM Release bearing guide
OEM rear main seal
OEM Honda grease

IF NEEDED:
OEM Flywheel bolts and washer
OEM clutch fork and cylinder boot if needed

buying all of this will highly decrease the chances of me having to take the transmission out more than this one time to replace all parts. The main reason I’m making this post is to see people thoughts on my way of doing it and to help people that are new doing this type of job. Main thing to be said is go OEM Honda parts only. No exedy, No ACT there known for going bad. while you can mix OEM disc with a ACT pressure plate for cheap. I’ve decided to resurface and get a OEM disc for the cheapest way possible and still be OEM. For all the smarts in s2ki let me know your thought on my way of doing it, main question from me is if resurfacing the flywheel and plate is safe.

 

Yes, stick with all the factory parts.

There's no advantage to buying an ACT pressure plate unless you *need* to use a higher clamp load. Otherwise, its just going to put extra wear on the engine and other components for no gain.

Also buy the factory release bearing guide and HT urea grease.

 

It's been about 3 years since I replaced the original clutch, disc, et all in my S2000. I also used all OEM parts.

You'll notice the pedal action is lighter and the engagement feel is smoother.

So far, no issues. One of the better changes to the driving experience.

 

Agree on the release guide and Urea grease. If you can get your hands on a Honda Shop Manual do so, it is a very well written manual. Otherwise there are some how to's around here for the job I believe. Make sure to grease the areas it says.

If you can wait a bit for shipping, Try getting your parts from Amyama. Way cheaper than even Majestic. I did not know about that site until after I purchased my last clutch. My friend used them and it was about $300-$400 cheaper IIRC. Took a couple of weeks to get his parts but was well worth the savings.

One thing to watch for is the subframe bolts. Part of doing the job is supporting the subframe, loosening them 3 inches and then lowering the subframe onto them. Some of those (Seems like the front two mostly) get corroded up above where they stick through the threaded portion in the frame, making them tighten back up as you loosen a bit when the corroded section enters the threaded portion. And you cannot get to any part of that threaded area easily as it is boxed inside the frame. Mine was ok, but my friends was very bad on one side. We carefully loosened and tightened it to get it to loosen further but it was not moving much. We were able to get it down about 1.75" which was enough to do the job though. Main point is do not go too nuts there because if you screw up that bolt, it may be very hard to fix.

 

I did this job myself last year on my '02.

My advice is take it slowly, and when it comes to any of the more critical/consequential parts of the job, double and triple check before removing/lifting/dropping/whatever it is. I made some mistakes as I got cocky and started feeling like a real mechanic. Fortunately everything worked out fine, but in hindsight there were a few times I should have slowed down and made sure I understood *exactly* what I was doing and why.

"Clean and resurface pressure plate" -- any reason you're not just replacing this part while you're in there? The kit I got from Rock Auto included a new OEM PP.

"OEM rear main seal" -- do you know that this needs to be replaced? I am NOT an expert, but other folks here might suggest leaving this alone. My understanding is that it's one of those "don't touch it if it ain't broke" kinda things. If I was more experienced and had done it before though, probably I'd just replace it for peace of mind.

"IF NEEDED: OEM clutch fork and cylinder boot if needed" -- I suggest getting a new fork, as it's inexpensive and you can only replace it while the transmission is out. My original fork seemed fine, but I got a new one anyway.

I also suggest picking up some replacement driveshaft bolts. When I did my clutch, I anticipated breaking/cutting some number of these during removal, so had new ones on hand just in case. I did struggle with some of them, and although I could have reused them all, I just tossed them all and put in the new ones.

Oh, and label EVERY bolt that you remove. I put a 'flag' of painter's tape around each bolt and wrote its purpose and location. The last thing you want is a box full of mystery transmission and sub-frame bolts.

 

Thank you very much everyone who responded so quickly and gave me some in depth detail and ideas of your own. So as far as the resurfacing pressure plate would just be to save money really I mean I’m young and can’t afford as much as most adults with s2ks can. buying a whole new pressure plate would add an additional $300 or so. But yes I’m young and use to own a beautiful Z32 and while s2k is much different I took a couple ideas and some knowledge from my z32 and wanted to apply it to my s2k and the rear main seal being one of them. If there known for being one of those “dont touch unless broke” I’ll most likely leave it alone. I just don’t want the main seal to go bad then I have to take the transmission back out and all of that for a cheap seal.

 

The rear main seal is a good idea, as long as you are 600% confident in what you're doing.

Nothing wrong with just scuffing up the pressure plate and reusing it, as long as its not grooved or otherwise damaged. There's no need to automatically buy a new pressure plate every time you do a clutch.

 

I’ve only done one transmission removal on my buddy’s b18 swapped ls del sol transmission. And while it was very easy I know the s2k will be a lot different obviously being that it’s RWD. So like you guys say mainly taking my time with the right tools and mindset I believe everything will be right. I really really do appreciate everyone that commented helped me out and understand a little more in depth if the s2k most likely will be ordering parts soon after a couple paychecks

 

Thanks @B serious I’ll definitely do lots of research before I dig down into the rear main seal but as far as the pressure plate glad to have someone second on my idea. Because I really don’t feel like spending hundreds on this job

 

I see. When I was ordering all my parts, I considered replacing the seal while I was in there. But from what I read, I concluded that I *personally* wasn't confident enough in my skills to do this. My car has only ~90K km... but maybe if it was double that, I would have more seriously considered it.