Replacing clutch + Everything else
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Joined: Aug 2020
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From: Victoria BC
Thank you very much everyone who responded so quickly and gave me some in depth detail and ideas of your own. So as far as the resurfacing pressure plate would just be to save money really I mean I’m young and can’t afford as much as most adults with s2ks can. buying a whole new pressure plate would add an additional $300 or so. But yes I’m young and use to own a beautiful Z32 and while s2k is much different I took a couple ideas and some knowledge from my z32 and wanted to apply it to my s2k and the rear main seal being one of them. If there known for being one of those “dont touch unless broke” I’ll most likely leave it alone. I just don’t want the main seal to go bad then I have to take the transmission back out and all of that for a cheap seal.
The Rock Auto Sachs kit I got included the disc, PP, pilot bearing and release bearing for $480CAD, fwiw in comparison to the parts and prices you are looking at.
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I did this job myself last year on my '02.
My advice is take it slowly, and when it comes to any of the more critical/consequential parts of the job, double and triple check before removing/lifting/dropping/whatever it is. I made some mistakes as I got cocky and started feeling like a real mechanic. Fortunately everything worked out fine, but in hindsight there were a few times I should have slowed down and made sure I understood *exactly* what I was doing and why.
"Clean and resurface pressure plate" -- any reason you're not just replacing this part while you're in there? The kit I got from Rock Auto included a new OEM PP.
"OEM rear main seal" -- do you know that this needs to be replaced? I am NOT an expert, but other folks here might suggest leaving this alone. My understanding is that it's one of those "don't touch it if it ain't broke" kinda things. If I was more experienced and had done it before though, probably I'd just replace it for peace of mind.
"IF NEEDED: OEM clutch fork and cylinder boot if needed" -- I suggest getting a new fork, as it's inexpensive and you can only replace it while the transmission is out. My original fork seemed fine, but I got a new one anyway.
I also suggest picking up some replacement driveshaft bolts. When I did my clutch, I anticipated breaking/cutting some number of these during removal, so had new ones on hand just in case. I did struggle with some of them, and although I could have reused them all, I just tossed them all and put in the new ones.
Oh, and label EVERY bolt that you remove. I put a 'flag' of painter's tape around each bolt and wrote its purpose and location. The last thing you want is a box full of mystery transmission and sub-frame bolts.
My advice is take it slowly, and when it comes to any of the more critical/consequential parts of the job, double and triple check before removing/lifting/dropping/whatever it is. I made some mistakes as I got cocky and started feeling like a real mechanic. Fortunately everything worked out fine, but in hindsight there were a few times I should have slowed down and made sure I understood *exactly* what I was doing and why.
"Clean and resurface pressure plate" -- any reason you're not just replacing this part while you're in there? The kit I got from Rock Auto included a new OEM PP.
"OEM rear main seal" -- do you know that this needs to be replaced? I am NOT an expert, but other folks here might suggest leaving this alone. My understanding is that it's one of those "don't touch it if it ain't broke" kinda things. If I was more experienced and had done it before though, probably I'd just replace it for peace of mind.
"IF NEEDED: OEM clutch fork and cylinder boot if needed" -- I suggest getting a new fork, as it's inexpensive and you can only replace it while the transmission is out. My original fork seemed fine, but I got a new one anyway.
I also suggest picking up some replacement driveshaft bolts. When I did my clutch, I anticipated breaking/cutting some number of these during removal, so had new ones on hand just in case. I did struggle with some of them, and although I could have reused them all, I just tossed them all and put in the new ones.
Oh, and label EVERY bolt that you remove. I put a 'flag' of painter's tape around each bolt and wrote its purpose and location. The last thing you want is a box full of mystery transmission and sub-frame bolts.
Cheaper options for AP1 driveshaft bolt - S2KI Honda S2000 Forums
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If the pedal is really stiff, I'd look more into the slave and master cylinders before jumping straight into a clutch replacement--assuming that's what you're trying to solve.
I don't really think the pedal feeling of the clutch is determined much, if at all, by the wear on the components outside of clutch fork lubrication and guide bearing.
I don't really think the pedal feeling of the clutch is determined much, if at all, by the wear on the components outside of clutch fork lubrication and guide bearing.
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From: South Carolina Columbia
@bad_driver I mean after all there’s so much things it can be. I’m not necessarily replacing clutch because of the stiff pedal it’s more because I have 114,000 miles with factory clutch which usually don’t go past 75k miles so it’s about the time for sure. But I said before I’m young so really I’m waiting awhile to get it so I’m just preparing. still daily drive it got be ready for the worse… and the stiff pedal is just like a small start to knowing the whole setup including the master and slave cylinder are going out. Which I totally forgot about the master and slave cylinder. I’m sure I can replace those without taking the transmission off and just properly bleeding the fluid. I’ll most likely do that later when those actually go bad. Thanks again everyone for all the information !
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From: Illnoise. WAY downtown, jerky.
If the pedal is really stiff, I'd look more into the slave and master cylinders before jumping straight into a clutch replacement--assuming that's what you're trying to solve.
I don't really think the pedal feeling of the clutch is determined much, if at all, by the wear on the components outside of clutch fork lubrication and guide bearing.
I don't really think the pedal feeling of the clutch is determined much, if at all, by the wear on the components outside of clutch fork lubrication and guide bearing.
The S2000's pressure plate's springs will start to lean outward and relax as the clutch wears, which will increase the effort needed to pull on them.
Beside the lack of SAC, dirt and clutch material also build up on the bearing guide.
Cars with SAC's have an a self adjusting fulcrum which will negate the relaxing of the pressure plate springs and keep the clutch pedal effort about the same, all the way through the wear of the disc.
Last edited by B serious; Feb 7, 2024 at 05:20 PM.
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Rule out excessive friction at all points before condemning and dropping trans just based off mileage. Change fluid. The only point you may not be able to properly clean/grease is the input splines without dropping. Check for a master that dirties reservoir fluid quickly, that can point to seal degradation and of fluid that is long gone; internal leakage.
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From: South Carolina Columbia
I did want to ask I had that in mind changing all fluid and properly bleeding them that being
differential fluid
trans fluid
And brake fluid
now I don’t really question diff or brake changes cause I’ve done those in the past maybe the diff if anything, But at far as changing the fluid out of a manual transmission would I be fine doing the change for the first time at 114k miles I know some transmission mainly automatic will go out after changing the fluid if you haven’t done it every proper changing every 20k miles or if there was a problem with the trans and you try fixing it by flushing fluid. Just curious if I’ll be fine changing the fluid for the first time when it’s recommended after 20k something miles. I’d be changing it every 20k miles after that.
differential fluid
trans fluid
And brake fluid
now I don’t really question diff or brake changes cause I’ve done those in the past maybe the diff if anything, But at far as changing the fluid out of a manual transmission would I be fine doing the change for the first time at 114k miles I know some transmission mainly automatic will go out after changing the fluid if you haven’t done it every proper changing every 20k miles or if there was a problem with the trans and you try fixing it by flushing fluid. Just curious if I’ll be fine changing the fluid for the first time when it’s recommended after 20k something miles. I’d be changing it every 20k miles after that.
Thread Starter
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From: South Carolina Columbia
After doing more research on the clutch kits. I will continue to go all OEM parts but instead of resurfacing I’ll just grab new PP and just resurface the flywheel. I’m looking in rock auto for some clutch kits that offer full OEM factory parts which I’ve came upon the SACHS which people have said things about but even all the other “OEM” kits on rock auto are a lot cheaper than I thought making me want to buy a new pp, disc, bearing allat instead of doing all the resurfacing for cheap. But is the SACHS 100% OEM or any of the cheap discs and pp on rock auto?
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I did want to ask I had that in mind changing all fluid and properly bleeding them that being
differential fluid
trans fluid
And brake fluid
now I don’t really question diff or brake changes cause I’ve done those in the past maybe the diff if anything, But at far as changing the fluid out of a manual transmission would I be fine doing the change for the first time at 114k miles I know some transmission mainly automatic will go out after changing the fluid if you haven’t done it every proper changing every 20k miles or if there was a problem with the trans and you try fixing it by flushing fluid. Just curious if I’ll be fine changing the fluid for the first time when it’s recommended after 20k something miles. I’d be changing it every 20k miles after that.
differential fluid
trans fluid
And brake fluid
now I don’t really question diff or brake changes cause I’ve done those in the past maybe the diff if anything, But at far as changing the fluid out of a manual transmission would I be fine doing the change for the first time at 114k miles I know some transmission mainly automatic will go out after changing the fluid if you haven’t done it every proper changing every 20k miles or if there was a problem with the trans and you try fixing it by flushing fluid. Just curious if I’ll be fine changing the fluid for the first time when it’s recommended after 20k something miles. I’d be changing it every 20k miles after that.
There is a ton of myth around an automatic trans going out after fluid changes too. There is some concern with a full flush due to the way the fluid travels (with a trans cooler there is another way to do that too) but just changing fluid and filter does not hurt anything on them. Many newer cars though claim the automatic trans is service free and they say not to ever change it .. there is a whole rabbit hole of discussion around that and is even further off topic
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There is some concern with a full flush due to the way the fluid travels (with a trans cooler there is another way to do that too) but just changing fluid and filter does not hurt anything on them. Many newer cars though claim the automatic trans is service free and they say not to ever change it .. there is a whole rabbit hole of discussion around that and is even further off topic
I did several auto transmission oil and filter changes way back during the college's off-quarters --- to earn money. What a PAIN! At that time, one changed the oil at operating temp, with many cars having no separate oil drain bolt.
So, you had to slowly remove all the oil pan bolts and tilt the pan to drain the oil. Or you'd get a red oil shower!
Many cars today have a dedicated oil drain bolt.
